(All photos: Emmanuel Tarpin)
Imagine the delicate curl of a bean plant’s tendril reimagined with tsavorites and garnets, or perhaps lifelike orchid earrings whose ruffled petals are captured in ombré tones of blue and glimmering with Namibian and Paraíba tourmalines and diamonds. It is usually impossible to improve on the perfection of Mother Nature but, somehow, award-winning jeweller Emmanuel Tarpin always manages to do so.
One of the most in-demand names in the rarefied world of high jewellery, Tarpin was destined to be a star. And despite professing that he “sometimes lacks confidence”, the young, Annecy-born talent possessed enough of it to establish his eponymous atelier in early 2018, at the relatively young age of 25. After spending just a few years working in the ateliers of Van Cleef & Arpels, Tarpin experienced an epiphany. “There was an a-ha moment, you could say,” he muses. “It was then I decided to set up my own brand. Of course, I was not confident as I know the world of jewellery is a very closed one. But I felt the deep need to create my own pieces and express my own inspirations.”
Building up his business and clientele pretty much the same way he operates — slowly and intimately — Tarpin, from the outset, relied exclusively on word-of-mouth for growth. “It was something I decided upon from the very beginning,” he says. “I would meet clients only by private appointment, taking the time to establish a genuine relationship based on real trust. So, if you were to ask the highlights of the past years, it would be simply this: all the inspiring and wonderful people I had the privilege of meeting along the way, people who understand my work and my approach.”
image05779.jpg
Although Tarpin’s meteoric ascent in the world of haute joaillerie seems charmed, he, once again, stresses that lack of confidence and self-doubt continue to plague him. “Doubt is part of who I am,” he says matter-of-factly. “It can hold me back but it also drives me to question myself, to evolve and to innovate. So I try to always find the right balance in all things, to keep that sensitivity which allows me to create while learning to trust myself more.”
This belief in balance, despite working in ultra-luxury, could perhaps be credited to his wonderful childhood. Growing up in the heart of the French Alps, it seems a world away from the glamour and moneyed trappings of Paris where Tarpin now works, albeit from a desk with a view of the Eiffel Tower. “Annecy is in southeastern France, between a lake and mountains. I spent so much time outdoors. Being constantly surrounded by nature gives me an infinite palette of inspiration, be it colour, shape or texture,” he smiles. “It also taught me to take time for contemplation, to develop my own sensitivity and observe the smallest details. Whenever I need a breath of fresh air, I still make it a point to return to Annecy.”
But beyond his hometown, Tarpin is also more than partial to exploring the rest of the planet. After all, as his primary source of inspiration is nature, what better way to kindle excitement in one’s work than by cultivating a mind that is open to the world? “Inspiration can come from absolutely anywhere,” he states. “I travel often and spend a lot of time outdoors, hiking in the mountains or scuba diving. Wherever I go, I try to immerse myself fully, understanding the culture and history of the place. All of this nourishes my imagination endlessly. I feel very lucky because I have a wonderful family. My parents always taught my sisters and me that curiosity and open-mindedness were keys to the world.”
image00005.jpg
Not ones to just preach, the Tarpins took their children on extraordinary journeys, which included horseback riding across the Mongolian steppes, living with Buddhist monks in Japan and arriving on the Trans-Siberian railway to peer into the dark depths of Lake Baikal, the world’s oldest and deepest freshwater lake. “Those experiences taught me the importance of, how would you say, going towards others … of embracing different cultures and knowing how to immerse myself. Truly, how better to feed one’s imagination and to be inspired?”
Besides places of breathtaking natural beauty, Tarpin also makes it a point to travel to countries with distinct and different gemstone and mining traditions regularly. “I do so because it is essential for me to understand what truly happens behind the scenes in high jewellery. Being industry-aware is a duty,” he firmly says. “I am passionate about gemology, so travelling to places like these allows me to see the extraction process, meet the miners and understand their working and living conditions, and learn about the environmental impact.”
Not one to shy away from the sometimes harsh face of reality, Tarpin also adds how it is important to be fully aware of every facet of one’s work. “You need to know it in order to help things evolve and move forward intelligently. Also, it is important to share this often-overlooked side of the business. I have been on many special trips but I can say truly my heart belongs to Colombia and its emerald mines, which is also my favourite stone. I love emeralds for the vibrancy of their colour and their delicate fragility. It is intense and sensitive which, I like to joke, is just like me,” he laughs. “The contrast between Colombia’s jungle’s lush beauty and the harshness of the mines, coupled with the warmth and kindness of its people, also truly melted my heart.”
broooch.jpg
Although Tarpin found success unusually early, he assures those wanting to work in similarly creative fields to try and put self-doubt aside and simply go for it. He advises that it infinitely helps to be surrounded by people who bring out the best in you. “You need to stay attentive to your surroundings,” he cautions. “Always listen, question yourself … You can even take your time and hesitate but always, always remain true to who you are.”
It might also surprise people to learn that Tarpin, a graduate of the prestigious Geneva-based Haute École d’Art et de Design in Switzerland, grew up wanting to be a sculptor. “I practised sculpture in clay for 14 years,” he says. “But then I also did want to be a professional gemologist, travel the world and discover the most beautiful gemstones. Besides, I have always said that high jewellery is sculpture you can wear. So, in a way, you could say that I have combined both my passions.”
This article first appeared on Nov 10, 2025 in The Edge Malaysia.
