Striking in red following the Royal Monday Service in Armagh, Northern Ireland
Royalists around the world are all aflutter already over news that the centenary of Queen Elizabeth II’s birth is set to be marked by the largest-ever exhibition of her fashion. To be aptly held at The King’s Gallery at Buckingham Palace, Queen Elizabeth II: Her Life in Style is touted to be remarkably comprehensive, displaying approximately 200 different items, half of which are said to be exhibited for the first time.
Naturally, as Britain’s longest-reigning monarch (until her death on Sept 8, 2022, she had ruled for 70 years and 214 days), expect the royal wardrobe to reflect likewise. The extensive archive of clothes had been in the care of the Royal Collection Trust and they felt a sartorial tribute to the late queen’s style would be perfect on the occasion of what would have been the centenary of her birth.
Scheduled to run from spring to autumn next year, the exhibition will display iconic dresses and evening gowns worn during key public events as well as off-duty looks on the rare occasions when Her Majesty was not working or touring; this would be primarily during her sacrosanct Scottish summers at Balmoral. Archive photographs would always capture her in one of her beloved tweedy, equestrian looks, featuring tartan skirts, jodhpurs and Argyle knits, waxed jackets or quilted vests by Barbour, and almost always accessorised with an Hermès headscarf, tied jauntily under her chin.
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Meticulously curated, the showcase will encompass articles of clothing worn throughout her life: from baby princess to queen regnant. For example, the silver lamé bridesmaid dress the young Princess Elizabeth wore, aged eight, for the 1934 wedding of her uncle, the Duke of Kent, to Princess Marina of Greece, will be shown for the first time. Designed by Edward Molyneux, a favourite among royals and stars like Greta Garbo, Marlene Dietrich and Vivien Leigh, it remains one of the earlier surviving pieces of couture from her childhood wardrobe.
Those with a sharp eye would appreciate the exquisite detailing on the 1953 white satin coronation gown by Norman Hartnell, adorned with all four emblems representing the countries of the UK — the Tudor rose (England), the thistle (Scotland), the leek (Wales) and the shamrock (Ireland) — as well as other flowers of the Commonwealth countries such as the maple leaf (Canada), wattle flower (Australia), silver fern (New Zealand), protea (South Africa) and lotus (India). It was said that design work took eight months to complete, including research and the sheer amount of intricate embroidery needed.
The queen’s 1947 wedding dress, also by Hartnell, is another highlight. For those who care to remember, the wedding was held not long after the Second Great War, when England was rebuilding itself after the long, hard years. Ever frugal and conscientious, the young princess had to save up clothing ration coupons to obtain enough satin for her bridal dress.
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Reports state how the British public, upon hearing that the young princess was not exempt from the strict austerity measures, even with regards to a royal wedding looming, began pooling and sending clothing ration coupons to the palace. However, it was illegal to transfer ration coupons and all were said to have been returned, complete with a thank you note. Once enough material had been obtained, a team of over 300 women, working steadily for nearly two months, brought Hartnell’s vision to life.
There are also fashions that serve as both adornment and diplomatic tools, such as the 1961 green-and-white ball gown, especially created for the queen to wear to a state banquet in Karachi, Pakistan. The dress subtly but powerfully honoured the country’s national colours through an emerald green pleat cascading down the back as well as matching emerald accents at the shoulders.
Besides Hartnell, creations by other favoured British designers, including Sir Hardy Amies and Ian Thomas, who designed the famous blue chiffon dress the queen wore to the 1981 summer wedding of her eldest son Prince Charles to Lady Diana Spencer, will also be featured.
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What cannot be seen with the naked eye, however, are the touches and eagle-eyed attention to detail that ensured the queen was always the picture of perfect propriety, without a single incident of wardrobe malfunction ever taking place. Milliners, for example, would be guided by a royal brief on the size of hat brims so the monarch could always be seen by her people, while seamstresses would weigh hems down to foil even the sneakiest sudden gust of wind.
Queen Elizabeth II might be known more for her long, distinguished reign and statesmanship but judging from the buzz the upcoming exhibition is already generating, power and presence can also be conveyed through the softness of fabric and the thoughtfulness of fashion design.
Queen Elizabeth II: Her Life in Style will be held at The King’s Gallery, Buckingham Palace, London, from spring to autumn 2026.
This article first appeared on Sept 15, 2025 in The Edge Malaysia.
