Left: Sticky Toffee Pudding, Right: Masala Muska Bun
It is no secret that Bangkok has been steadily establishing itself as one of Asia’s and the world’s great food capitals. So when news broke that one of the city’s most respected Indian restaurants, Jhol, would be expanding its presence into Kuala Lumpur this year, excitement and anticipation naturally followed.
The coastal Southern dining room, brainchild of eminent New-York based chef Hari Nayak, unveiled its Malaysian location back in May, garnering heaps of attention as a date night-slash-special occasion hotspot while still having a casual enough vibe for one to enjoy a normal meal. Tucked within The Met Corporate Towers, Mont’Kiara, the outlet is attached to its cocktail bar Chola and shisha lounge Mintsha, a trio capable of accommodating the whole pre- to post-dining experience.
Given that chef Gaurav Gupta, a veteran from the Thai branch, runs the show here, we enter with high hopes. Jhol’s menu pays homage to the hearty, beloved dishes that feed the stomachs and souls of the subcontinent’s massive population: elevated takes on street staples and snacks that encapsulate, with authenticity, the sheer diversity and vibrancy of India’s culinary traditions.
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The à la carte selection includes a solid range of proteins and preparations — starters hover around RM60 to RM70, while the more substantial stuff will easily run north of RM100 — with a whole separate vegetarian menu guaranteeing all guests are able to appreciate the full array of flavour profiles crafted by the chefs. As it is our first visit, we go for the six-course tasting menu titled The Culinary Journey (RM310), trying both the regular and vegetarian iterations to get a full sense of Jhol’s capabilities. Note that your whole table must concur on either the tasting menu or ordering à la carte; no mixing is permitted.
The drinks list is comprehensive, made up of wines and sparkling bottles in addition to an impressive line-up of cocktails, juices and gin and tonics. The Soi Cowboy (RM55) blends banana bourbon, Benedictine, pandan and coconut cider for a strong yet smooth, lightly medicinal potion we find ideal for sipping over the meal. From the G&Ts, we opt for the herbaceous and fruity Ki No Tea Dry Gin (RM72) mixed with Tumugi Koji and white peach and jasmine soda. Wine or cocktail pairings are also available upon request. Bottled water is the only option here, a pertinent consideration given the dishes can be quite heavy on sodium and spice — those who struggle with heat should disclose this earlier.
The signature Masala Muska Bun (RM45) has been raved about extensively on social media as an must-try add-on, so we make a point not to miss it. The staff sensibly suggests the two of us share one, advice we appreciate given the volume of food ahead. Fluffy, chewy bubbles of warm bread are always a welcome starter — this item especially so with its potato masala stuffing and poppy seeds for added texture. The yellow pav bhaji butter emulates the popular Mumbai dish of spiced mashed veggies served with dinner rolls, but we prefer the green curry leaf iteration for its light, clean taste.
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As part of the meal’s Prelude portion, a colourful and intriguing trio of amuse-bouches arrives. The Bombay Bhel is a play on bhel puri, a type of chaat, comprising puffed rice salad and avocado espuma topped with sev (deep-fried gram flour noodles) for a minty, crunchy and creamy composition. Jhol’s take on the Kolkata Dim’er Devil, West Bengal state’s iconic street treat, is very well balanced, with a great texture on the mutton mince, while the vegetarian Beet Chop is a crispy, earthy nugget. The Calicut Pepper Crab and matching mushroom version are toothsome and lemongrass-forward, mixed with the house’s black pepper masala and placed on a toasted square of milk bread and yogurt pachadi sauce.
The next course, the BFC (Berhampur Fried Chicken), another Jhol classic, appears almost artificial in its perfectly orange fried exterior. The seasoned crust and incredibly tender meat — both the savoury flesh and juicy mince — offer full-bodied flavour and a hit of heat especially when dunked into the green hot sauce. Meanwhile, the Piri Piri Jackfruit serves the soft roasted flesh with Goan balchao spices in a tangy, red chilli-based gravy, accompanied by curd rice and appalam (deep-fried rice noodles) to soak up the delicious sauce.
Channelling nostalgia is the Surti Anda Gothala, a mildly sweet and creamy egg curry (alternatively paneer) on soft scrambled eggs topped with shaved truffle. The Tamil-inspired green chilli cheese toast on the side is a tad dry, but this is alleviated by dipping it in the comforting curds.
After a lychee palate cleanser comes The Feast, a two-part sharing-style litany beginning with the Kundapura Ghee Roast Chicken, a punchy yet invigorating (albeit oversalted) curry to be enjoyed with coriander coconut chutney on a cone of thin, crispy dosa — a brilliant marriage of heat, aromatics and texture. Even better is the sumptuously soft eggplant equivalent. The second main, the Allepper Fish Curry with red Matta rice and buttery tempered tapioca, is another stunner, featuring an unctuous, flaky piece of fish drenched in silky, addictive gravy and a sliver of sour mango to brighten the entire plate. The Roasted Pumpkin Menaskai is beautifully presented in a miniature gourd, richly flavoured with chunks of pumpkin and pineapple for a sweet and spicy stew that pairs excellently with the cashew ghee rice.
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Jhol does not shirk when it comes to desserts either. The Tender Coconut Payasam combines subtle coconut rice pudding with mango sorbet, passionfruit jellies and blueberry jam for a delectable tropical symphony that is elevated by the nutty jaggery sesame snap (theatrically cracked with a pestle) on top. On the other hand, the Sticky Toffee Pudding is teeming with decadent, burnt butterscotch notes, a superbly curated blend of salted ice cream, bittersweet sauce and juicy charred pineapple. Mango yoghurt and saffron semolina petit fours are brought to close out the night.
We, unfortunately, cannot end without sharing some grievances. While some have described the space as airy, we cannot help but disagree. Certainly, the interiors exude a suitably sophisticated and modern aesthetic, and the eye-catching tower of Bollinger champagne does a lot of heavy lifting in terms of visual impressiveness. But between the narrow entranceways and awkwardly segmented main dining room, the flow of the space does not have the luxurious feel we were hoping for from a place with such an upscale image, especially during more crowded periods.
Our spot next to one of the two large room dividers felt a little cramped, made worse by the table’s size — we spent the evening shuffling glasses around and precariously repositioning the large dishware since multiple courses would arrive simultaneously, wondering the whole time how this table was originally set for four. To the staff’s credit, they went out of their way to peek in on us regularly, though the wall still made it challenging to hail them at will.
Nevertheless, the journey Jhol brings us on is one that grows better with each dish, and despite the rocky opening thoughts, our meal is decidedly a good one. The restaurant has some kinks to smooth out vis-à-vis its service and overall dining experience, but looking at its enticing à la carte options and adjoining establishments, there is undoubtedly promise in a second visit.
This article first appeared on Oct 6, 2025 in The Edge Malaysia.
