Akar awarded its first Michelin star (All photos: Michelin Guide)
The season for celebrating Malaysia’s dining scene has come around once again. Hosted at the Four Seasons Kuala Lumpur, the event began with Chinese baijiu cocktails by Wu Liang Ye and peanut butter ice cream sponsored by FunNow in the foyer. As the chefs and guests mingled, it was not long before the doors opened into the ballroom for the awards ceremony.
From gerai-gerai to fine-dining restaurants, representatives from the industry sat in anticipation of the accolades.
“The year’s selection celebrates a country where culinary heritage and modern imagination come together in perfect balance. From kitchens that honour generations of tradition to talents that boldly redefine excellence, Malaysia’s dining landscape continues to flourish as one of Asia’s most inspiring,” said Michelin Guide international director Gwendal Poullennec.
“The restaurants recognised this year reflect the remarkable energy and diversity of our food scene. Together, they form a mosaic of flavour and passion, telling the culinary story of a modern Malaysia, a story that’s confident, expressive and innovative.”
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Retaining its two Michelin stars, Dewakan was acknowledged for its efforts to ensure ingredients are locally and sustainably sourced. Taking pride in the use of native ingredients like sukun (breadfruit) and litsea, and using only dinnerware handmade by home-grown artists, founder chef Darren Teoh has continued to incorporate some of his personal values into his cooking. The Malaysian-leaning restaurant remains the only dining establishment in the country to be awarded a Green Star for its commitment to eco-friendly practices such as utilising all parts of the produce, avoiding wastage that contributes to landfills and training other chefs in the region to care for the environment.
Then came the highlight of the evening. Akar and Terra Dining each received their first Michelin star. They now stand alongside Beta, Chim by Chef Noom, DC by Darren Chin, Molina, Au Jardin and Auntie Gaik Lean’s Old School Eatery — all of which retained their one star for the coming year.
Led by chef Aidan Low, Akar features European dishes with influences from Japan, France and Malaysia. Low’s inventive menu, drawn from his personal experience through travel and training, takes diners on a gastronomic journey with unique techniques such as cooking with melted beeswax and searing in claypot. Upon receiving his award, he said: “This is, at the end of the day, a big reflection of what Malaysia has to offer — and there is so much more we can do.”
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Meanwhile, Terra Dining, having opened only two years ago, received this honour with self-taught chef Chong Yu Cheng at the helm. He uses indigenous produce to create his French-inspired 11-course tasting menu that includes a lobster bisque paired with smoky Tahal oil based on asam laksa and a beurre blanc made with a creamy curry containing turmeric and coconut milk.
Subsequently, the Special Awards were presented to individuals and venues that demonstrated skill in the hospitality industry beyond the kitchen.
The Young Chef Award went to chef Chin Hua Wong, who seemed taken aback by the announcement. Representing Shu, a newly Michelin Selected restaurant in KL, his cooking is largely influenced by the time he spent working in acclaimed kitchens in Singapore, Bangkok and Shenzhen.
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Maverick Fung of K, a newly Michelin Selected Japanese restaurant specialising in localised kaiseki, was given the Service Award for his deep knowledge of ingredients and wine accumulated across 10 years in the industry. “This is a great honour. It is not only my achievement but one for the whole team. We will continue to improve and provide the best experience to every person who dines at K,” he said.
The Opening of the Year Award was presented to Bidou, Teoh’s latest venture, for providing a distilled commemoration of authentic French cuisine to the city. A crowd favourite is the threadfine and scallop mousse baked en croûte that pays homage to famous French chef Paul Bocuse.
Soon after the individual awards were presented, the Bib Gourmand category commenced. It was started by Michelin to recognise restaurants that offer exquisite food at affordable prices. This year, five new names joined the list. In KL, Gulainya and Lama were commended for their nuanced flavours of Peranakan cuisine. While in Penang, Awesome Char Koay Teow, Bee Hwa Cafe and Sifu highlight regional dishes often enjoyed as street food.
Currently, 84 establishments have received the Michelin Selected distinction, with 11 additions announced at the event. The restaurants in KL that were chosen include Bidou and K; as well as Jie, which offers modern Chinese fare with refined techniques; Kazu, contemporary Japanese with quality sushi and kappo menus; Kuki, a redefinition of vegan grub with flair; and Shu, a kitchen with an ingredient-driven perspective.
In Penang, there were Backlinen, offering barbecue combining smokey flavours with an elegant presentation; Du-An, celebrating elevated local flavours; Mémoire, a creative tasting menu inspired by personal stories; Peninsula House, known for its Australian-Asian fusion; and Sood by Chef Ton, a Thai restaurant with the refined flavours of Bangkok.
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As the ceremony drew to a close, the attendees made their way to the Michelin Tasting Pavilion, where delightful treats were unveiled by three acclaimed chefs.
Hailing from Taipei, chef Alain Huang of two Michelin-starred Restaurant A, served an array of amuse-gueules that are French in origin but heavily influenced by Asian flavours. Chef Guillaume Depoortere of one Michelin-starred restaurant Molina featured complex and fresh hors d’oeuvres that blend French techniques, Nordic tastes and Asian finishes. A favourite of the selection was the Rollmops turmeric taco with parmesan. From Michelin Selected restaurant Lucky Hole in Penang, chef Waymann Cheong served beef short ribs with padjeri and pomelo, as well as amberjack in a suan chai broth garnished with daikon and tofu. The queue was out the door as guests sought a taste of what each chef had to offer.
With big smiles after each bite, they left the awards ceremony with much anticipation of what these talents will bring next.
This article first appeared on Nov 17, 2025 in The Edge Malaysia.
