The bold and disruptive Royal Pop features signature design details from the Royal Oak, including the octagonal bezel and raised tapisserie dial (All photos: Swatch)
In the 1960s, pop art emerged as a vibrant, defiant force in the US and Britain, marking one of the first true pulses of post-modernism. Drawing from the visual language of mass culture and commercialism, the movement challenged any singular definition of what art should be, collapsing the distinction between high and low.
The subversion of elitism through playful, mass-market disruption is reflected in Audemars Piguet and Swatch’s recent collaboration. Inspired by the legendary Gérald Genta-designed Royal Oak launched in 1972 as well as the Swatch Pop watches from the 1980s, Royal Pop is as bold and intrepid in design as it is a provocation to fine watchmaking — equally calculated to dominate the cultural conversation.
The collection is made up of eight (a nod to the Royal Oak’s octagonal bezel) Bioceramic pocket watches, each with its own distinctive colour scheme. They are divided into two unique styles. Six Lépine versions — Otto Rosso, Huit Blanc, Green Eight, Blaue Acht, Ocho Negro and Orenji Hachi — feature only the hours and minutes, with the winding crown at 12 o’clock. Meanwhile, the Savonnette models, Làn Ba and Otg Roz, include a small seconds subdial at 6 o’clock with the crown positioned at 3 o’clock. The Lépine and Savonnette styles are priced at RM1,720 and RM1,840 respectively.
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Powered by Swatch’s Calibre Sistem51 — the only Swiss-made mechanical movement in the world whose assembly is 100% automated — the vibrant timepieces boast an impressive 90-hour power reserve.
The collaboration yielded no fewer than 20 patents, headlined by an innovative barrel drum that doubles as a visual power reserve indicator. When the watch runs low on juice, the barrel chambers turn grey, exposing the relaxed coils of the mainspring. Conversely, a shift to brilliant gold indicates the mainspring is fully compressed and the watch is completely wound. Breaking free from the wrist, the modular timepiece can be paired with three calfskin lanyards, allowing endless styling including as a statement necklace or handbag charm. A small removable stand transforms it into a desk clock.
Royal Oak signatures, such as the Tapisserie dial and eight hexagonal screws, enliven the collection while the Royal Pop logo is pad-printed on the sapphire crystal caseback.
Why this collaboration?
“For the joy and boldness it represents. Because audacity is often the starting point of innovation and new ideas. And because it invites a broader audience, including the younger generation, to experience mechanical watchmaking differently,” says Audemars Piguet CEO Ilaria Resta.
The Le Brassus-based manufacture is committing 100% of its proceeds to fund a dedicated initiative supporting the preservation of horological savoir faire, with a focus on rare skills and nurturing the next generation of horological talent.
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Online reactions to the pocket watches have been mixed. While some netizens have praised the product’s appeal to a younger demographic, others have been quick to dub it a fumble on Audemars Piguet’s part, believing the timepieces are diluting the brand’s image and detracting from its exclusivity. Meanwhile, accessory brands are already capitalising on the opportunity. Singapore-based Delugs has announced intentions to manufacture straps for the collection.
Digital content creators are also actively driving conversation. “The exclusivity of the integrated sports watch design lost its power a long time ago... What Audemars Piguet is doing is reclaiming its language. If people are going to wear the concept of the watch at every price, they might as well participate in it, too. They are reminding everyone that they are the origin," opined Welcome to the Watchmosphere on YouTube.
Internet personality Britt Pearce gave her two cents: "I could actually see Royal Oak owners buying these to connect to their keychains or bags, and take pictures of their Royal Oaks alongside these. I think there's a really fun moment that's going to be had here."
"[The] watch industry has just become fun again," commented Dutch influencer Nico Leonard van der Horst on Swatch's announcement post on Instagram. Adding to the discourse, British watchmaker Studio Underd0g showed their support by saying: "That’s it, I’m securing my position in line!"
Regardless of the reception, one can still expect to see these playful watches dangling from bags, jackets or around necks when they release worldwide on May 16.
