Brinbaum believes that focusing on energy management in Bvlgari's smaller watches is the way to go (All photos: Bvlgari)
While Bvlgari’s debut at Watches and Wonders (W&W) last year was all about making a grand statement, its goal for 2026 was to emphasise its distinct identity as a jeweller that has mastered the art of time.
Brinbaum’s objective was to create a stronger link between the two divisions. “We dug up the archives and realised that in the 1970s, Bvlgari was a pioneer in using steel, one of the most iconic materials in watchmaking, in jewellery. At the time, everyone was criticising the brand because it wasn’t ‘precious’ enough,” he explains, drawing a parallel with how the material received similar pushback in horology.
Inspired by the intrepidity, the Roman maison is revisiting the union of gold and steel through the Serpenti reptile, Tubogas body and its iconic clou stud in a capsule that celebrates duality. “For us, it has always been about surprises and doing things that others wouldn’t expect,” he adds.
In the last decade, Bvlgari has made a case for the ultra-thin and diminutive, dominating the competition and shattering expectations with the Octo Finissimo and record-breaking Piccolissimo calibre. The former has expanded to embrace a medley of complications, but this year, Brinbaum was adamant on not just bringing in another variation, but a new creation altogether. Re-engineered in 37mm, it boasts a new movement that is not only 20% smaller, but also 20% more efficient.
“We also wanted it to be more versatile, for both men and women. So not only does it come in sandblasted titanium, but also polished and brushed 18-carat yellow gold. But if you ask me, the brushed and polished titanium is definitely the key highlight.”
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“Watchmaking is evolving because our clients are evolving. Today, the boundaries between men’s and ladies’ pieces are more blurred and we love it because that means there’s more freedom,” Brinbaum shares.
“There are plenty of things for us to explore in masculine horology, but as a jeweller, I believe the place for the maison is in watchmaking for women.
“We’ve seen a rising interest in both jewellery and watches, with the former influencing the latter. We have clients coming to us and asking what is powering our timepieces. I want to lead Bvlgari to a place where we create more mechanical and automatic watches for women.”
Brinbaum reveals that last year’s introduction of the automatic Calibre BVS 100 Lady Solotempo movement within the ladies’ line was a resounding success. Having mastered both thinness and miniaturisation, he believes energy management will be the new frontier.
“As everybody moves to smaller calibres, the difference will be made in how capable you are in managing energy. And you’ll see this more and more in Bvlgari in the future.”
This article first appeared in 'Calibre' on July 27, 2026 in The Edge Malaysia.
