Bingsheng Mansion (left) spans several floors, while Jade River sports an indoor koi pool beneath a faux sky
Hailed as one of China’s most popular and well-known Eight Great Cuisines, Yuècài, or Cantonese fare, is a delicate, yet nuanced, cooking style that has been slowly and steadily winning over even the most persnickety palates in all corners of the globe ever since it originated in Guangzhou more than 2,000 years ago.
While street snack carts, dim sum-serving tea houses and traditional hotpot and barbecue joints remain in demand, modern-day Cantonese culinary iterations and refinements by innovative chefs and the mushrooming of sleek dining rooms have resulted in the capital of Guangdong province being the preferred destination for globetrotting gourmets. The debut of the Michelin Guide Guangzhou in 2018 has also put the city on the international fine-dining radar. Since last year’s edition, 20 restaurants have earned at least a full Michelin star each. So, if you need a nudge in the right direction, here is a quick look at two of Guangzhou’s best.
BingSheng Mansion
Where: 2 Xiancun Road, in the major financial district of Tianhe
Why: Whether you like to dine in opulent privacy or enjoy peeking at what the other diners have ordered, BingSheng Mansion is a must. Spread out over several floors, this restaurant is ideal to impress your business associates (the wall lined with seven consecutive years of Michelin plaques will not fail to do the trick) or treat your loved ones to an array of fine and tasty dishes. And lest you fret that it might not pass muster with a French guide and its legion of inspectors, BingSheng Mansion can also proudly claim to be included in the prestigious Black Pearl restaurant guide, China’s answer to the Michelin.
What to try: As BingSheng’s menu is leather-bound and thick, be prepared for arguments as your dinner party fights to order the most tempting dishes. The signature raw fish, or Shunde Yusheng, is noteworthy in terms of both taste and presentation — it also saves you a trip to nearby Shun Tak (Shunde in Mandarin), recognised in 2014 by Unesco as a city of gastronomy. While Malaysians and Singaporeans are no strangers to yee sang, what sets the Cantonese version apart is its savouriness and aromatics. There is no cloying, sickly sweet plum sauce, and peanut oil is preferred over sesame. Whole wok-roasted peanuts, pickles and finely shredded lime leaf make it a dish to remember. For those who have no dietary restrictions, the Siu Mei platter with roasted black truffle goose and two types of char siu makes a wonderful start to any meal. Having sampled BingSheng’s crispy char siu, however, I can say, forget the rest and order a heaping plate of this instead. As a beacon of Cantonese cooking, double-boiled soup is a must. Have it with red beans and kudzu root or sweet corn and sun-dried flowers. To accompany your meal, maotai or any other type of baijiu is a good idea. But if you are the adventurous sort, why not try a Chinese wine? Puchang Vineyard, whose grapes are grown in or near the Gobi Desert, prides itself on less familiar varietals such as Saperavi and Rkatsiteli, two ethnic Georgian grapes.
Jade River
Where: Within the White Swan Hotel on Shamiandao Island, a gazetted historic area right by the Pearl River that evokes a colonial European feel in the vibrant Liwan district
Why: Elegant and soothing, with artisan Manchurian windows, an indoor koi pond beneath a faux sky, and live guzheng music, the iconic White Swan — one of China’s most renowned hotels — offers a dining experience to remember. The property has hosted a long list of luminaries and newsmakers over the past four decades, including Queen Elizabeth II, Richard Nixon, Margaret Thatcher, Fidel Castro and Bill Gates, since it was opened in 1983 by Hong Kong tycoon Henry Fok.
What to try: Authentic, albeit safe, Cantonese cooking is undoubtedly Jade River’s forte. But do not expect exciting creativity here, as it is a hotel restaurant, after all. Jade River draws its patrons by way of expertly prepared fare that caters for its extremely diverse guest demographic, from heads of state to well-heeled families and international tourists who want to enjoy local dishes in a soothingly luxurious environment. Families with children would invariably order tried-and-tested crowd favourites such as sweet-and-sour pork, kungpao shrimp or chicken and Guangzhou-style fried rice. Purists should ask the captain to recommend seasonal specialities, though. Lychees, for example, are now in season and Jade River’s double-boiled chicken soup with the fruit’s sweet flesh is a nourishing treat. Other standout dishes would be the steamed sunflower seed-fed chicken, baked pigeon with lemongrass and salt (if you did not adequately indulge at a Da Ge Fan outlet), and the braised beef sinew with scallions. Save room for the hotel’s famous saqima (Shat Kek Ma for “Ipoh mali” foodies) — a soft flour cake with a Rice Krispies-like texture made using fried, battered strands held together with sugar syrup. Oh, and if you do not feel like heavy dishes but prefer to yum cha, then swap your reservation for a handcrafted dim sum date at White Swan’s equally famous Hongtu Hall instead, just one floor below. Reservations, however, are a must, especially on weekends.
This article first appeared on July 21, 2025 in The Edge Malaysia.
