Seleste Tan (left) and Mogan Anthony are a husband-and-wife culinary duo (Photo: Lady Wong)
In a conurbation that has given birth to some of the world’s most iconic and popular desserts (think the New York cheesecake; Dominique Ansel’s cronut, a croissant-doughnut hybrid; Brooklyn Blackout Cake; rainbow bagels; and Magnolia Bakery’s banana pudding and cupcakes), saying any newcomer wanting to peddle pastries and sweet treats would face stiff competition is to put it mildly.
So when Mogan Anthony and Seleste Tan — who hail from Sungai Petani, Kedah and Kulai, Johor respectively — arrived in New York (Mogan had come to help a friend open a small restaurant in 2006), establishing a business built on kuih was not on the cards at all. It was during the pandemic in 2020 that the couple suddenly longed for the flavours of home.
“Growing up, kuih was a big part of our lives,” says Mogan. “It wasn’t a luxurious item. You would see it all the time… at the market, as an after-school snack and always at family gatherings. In the north, where I come from, you will see it with stronger Thai influences — bolder flavours and more savoury-sweet combinations. Kuih from Johor, on the other hand, has a stronger Peranakan influence: coconut-enriched and more refined.”
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Although the couple had no prior experience in kuih-making, Tan’s training as a pastry chef (honed, first, at the Four Seasons Singapore and then Duo, a New York restaurant) led to her experimenting by blending her French pastry techniques with Southeast Asian ingredients and flavours.
While the world was still grappling with living in isolation and uncertainty, Mogan and Tan decided to start a kuih delivery service. With its bright colours and addictive taste, kuih offered bite-sized deliciousness (and unabashed joy) and, naturally, proved to be a palpable hit — even among the seen-it-all, high-energy but jaded city slickers.
“It’s not just for the novelty factor,” Mogan stresses. “New Yorkers are very open-minded and always looking for something authentic and well executed. Kuih resonates because it has depth — textures, layers and tastes that are just so different from Western desserts — but is still comforting. Once people tried it, they understood. It wasn’t just about the obvious differences. It was meaningful.”
Popular pop-ups soon followed, culminating in two physical outlets — in the East Village and at the Urban Hawker food hall in Midtown Manhattan — where items like matcha pandan tarts with coconut jam (kaya, to you and me), rainbow lapis, talam, durian rolls and strawberry guava entremets are usually snapped up in quick succession. The couple initially wanted to call the business “Lady Ong”, borrowing from the Hokkien and Cantonese word for “good fortune” and to weave in a touch of their Malaysian roots.
“Over time, it evolved to become Lady Wong, which felt more natural, personal and easier for a wider audience to connect with. We felt it represented us and the brand clearly as well.”
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New York has clearly been good to the couple and their growing family (they have three children now, aged 10, six and four). And somehow, between juggling quality time and managing the business, they have found the energy and inclination to open a third outlet. Edging away from the pure kuih and pastry route this time, Mogan and Tan’s latest “baby” is named La Bistro.
“It is our latest project and located in Greenwich, Connecticut,” they say proudly. “It is a neighbourhood American bistro with a strong focus on brunch, lunch and dinner. It’s designed to feel warm, approachable and community-driven, while still reflecting our background in hospitality and pastry.”
A quick browse of the menu shows classic favourites, such as foie gras terrine, steak au poivre and mussels with leek butter. But there are, of course, items to tease and tempt, like the Tiger Mom dumplings (chicken dumplings drizzled in chilli oil and paired with radish slaw) — a low-key but obvious nod to Tan — and crispy sushi bites. “We’ve also incorporated Lady Wong cakes and coffee into the experience, so it’s a place where guests can come in the morning for coffee and return in the evening for a full meal and cocktails.”
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Balancing a successful business and raising a young family can be challenging but both Mogan and Tan acknowledge, “we are still figuring it out every day. We rely heavily on structure, a strong team and clear priorities. Family always comes first! Even when work is demanding.”
And on the inevitable question: What do they miss most about home? “Definitely the food,” they chorus in unison, “but also the pace of life and being close to family. There is a certain warmth and familiarity in Malaysia that is just hard to replicate anywhere else.”
This article first appeared on May 11, 2026 in The Edge Malaysia.
