Bartender-owner of Coa, Jay Khan, was born and raised in Hong Kong (Photo: Coa Hong Kong)
At the recent Asia's 50 Best Bars awards ceremony, Coa Hong Kong had once again edged his competitors out to hold steadfastly onto the No. 1 spot. The Best Bar in Asia and The Best Bar in Hong Kong made its debut on the list in 2019, securing the Highest New Entry Award at No.12, and has steadily rose through the ranks to claim the coveted top gong. We speak to bartender-owner Jay Khan, who braved the bars of Lan Kwai Fong and watering holes in Sydney and Melbourne, Australia before setting up Coa in 2017 on Shin Hing Street.
Options: What does winning Best Bar in Asia and Best Bar in Hong Kong again mean for you and the Hong Kong cocktail scene?
Jay Khan: We opened Coa six years ago without any expectations, so to win on home ground feels like a dream, to be honest. My grandmother was originally from Pakistan and moved here, where my mother was born. We used to live on Hollywood Road in Sheung Wan and I picked up Cantonese from spending a lot of time in the neighbourhood.
I have seen how the city evolved from a place teeming with karaoke bars to a hub populated by great bartending talent. When I just graduated, I worked 14 hours at a dim sum restaurant near my home and cleaned up after drunk customers at said karaoke bars. So to be where I am today, together with my team who believe in our values and promote them to our customers, I cannot be prouder.
You cut your teeth on numerous bars such as Hard Rock Cafe as well as Ed Club, and gained better understanding from distilleries in Mexico before opening Coa in November 2017. You wanted to educate people on agave spirits which are, as you mentioned, often misunderstood. Do you still feel the same struggle six years later?
Yes, I still think so, but we have built a good following at Coa who can appreciate mezcal and tequila (often seen as material for shots) better now. I always associate agave with wine because locals can relate to it easier as they share the same cultivating properties such as provenance, soil and climate. For the uninitiated, there are mezcal flights to introduce them to a diversity of agave flavours, including one accompanied by another Mexican pride: chocolate.
We were not very successful in our first year — there was no profit and we were behind every month. People were not convinced and they would say, ‘Oh, [Coa] is a tequila bar and I don’t feel like drinking tequila, so maybe I’ll go on a weekend’. But along the way, we started introducing workshops like our Mezcal Mission, a charity initiative that not only educates our guests on agave spirits but also gives back to ImpactHK that supports the homeless community and Feeding Hong Kong. We also do this overseas and try to find a charity to partner with.
coa_interior.jpg
The number of bottles you have behind the counter speaks volumes about your passion and pursuits.
We never really counted how many bottles we have but they are very hard to get. A lot of them are not even available in Hong Kong. Nearly 75% of these bottles are sourced from distilleries I have been to, so I know the producers. Most of them are family-owned and they are very transparent about the processes and ingredients that go into every bottle. Honestly, if you want to elevate any cocktails, just add a dash of mezcal. It makes everything taste better, trust me.
Do you visit other bars to get inspired?
Not any more. My daily routine is going to work, home and doing some running in the mountains. I was 125kg before, and lost 45kg during the pandemic because everything was slowing down. Bars were not open, and we had time to reflect on our daily lives. You’d be surprised because for the past three years we have been No 1, we were never once drunk. These days, we hang out, have a nice chat or support a new bar that drops by for a pop-up or event.
You have also started another bar called The Savoury Project with Ajit Gurung (who worked at the likes of Stockton and Lily & Bloom). Are people taking interest in cocktails made from white soy sauce or one that mimics Thai beef salad?
Well, the name of the bar hides no secrets. It’s been almost two months since we started The Savoury Project, which offers more experimental drinks. The space is intimate and, unlike Coa, encourages people to stand more and mingle. We are trying to introduce savoury cocktails in the way people approach tequila or mezcal for the first time at Coa. Anything goes here — you can find gin, rum, tequila and even wine as base.
savoury_project.jpeg
Do you still feel the pressure of staying No 1?
Coa has always been an evolving project. Whether we win awards or not, we are not going to change as a Mexican-inspired bar. One day, we will not be crowned No 1 any more and that is okay. The best compliment we have received is that our staff looks happy. Happy staff, happy guests. The formula for staying relevant and successful is as easy as that.
THREE TO TRY BY JAY KHAN
Bloody ‘Beef’ Maria
“This combination of tequila and mezcal, beef stock, Sichuan pepper, Morita chilli as well as tomato cordial is our take on the popular hair of the dog, Bloody Mary. This Mexican-Asian blend delivers a smoky and savoury punch at once.”
Bitter Melon Collins
“Instead of traditional bitters, we use white bitter melon in this cocktail fashioned with green curry botanicals (like kaffir lime leaf and lemongrass), elderflower tonic, coconut and tequila. This was inspired by our trip to Bangkok for the Asia’s 50 Best Bars last year.”
Pepper Smash
“To play off the vegetal characteristics of tequila, we mixed in yellow bell pepper, jalapeño infused agave spirit, shiso liqueur, Italian sweet basil and pineapple juice. It’s a refreshing mix that will jolt as well as brighten your palate and senses.”
This article first appeared on July 31, 2023 in The Edge Malaysia.
