Tycoon Mike Jatania on preserving The Body Shop’s legacy of ethical and eco-friendly cosmetics

The newly minted executive chairman discusses his plans to reinstate the brand’s core values while offering sustainable and inclusive products for the 21st-century customer.

There was an incredibly strong foundation... because of its ethical sourcing, sustainability, activism and core purpose of doing well through doing good (Photo: SooPhye)

In 1976, Dame Anita Roddick opened The Body Shop with these convictions in mind: to pioneer social and environmental change through products “that made women feel good in their skin — never promising to make them look like someone else”. Ethically sourced ingredients, cruelty-free practices and service to the community were among its primary motivations, and the market responded resoundingly to its messages of self-love, empowerment and business as a force of good. The circular laurel logo quickly became the emblem of natural and sustainable beauty, but while its portfolio remains among the most popular with everyday buyers across the globe, the company’s journey has not been without ups and downs.

“[The Body Shop] was successful because it was a true innovator and ahead of its time … It had a founder who was totally passionate about changing the world through a particular industry, being an activist and having a voice — whether it was against animal testing, plastics or the many areas over its long history,” frames Mike Jatania, the man set on revitalising the powerful values the late Roddick’s store once held. Lauded as the “Cosmetics King” — though for the grandeur of the title, he exudes an incredibly easy and personable charisma — Jatania and his new age private equity firm Auréa acquired the faltering Body Shop in September 2024, saving it from administration. Now, the UK-based tycoon brings the passion, perseverance and expertise that has guided his incredibly successful career of nearly 40 years to his new role as the brand’s executive chairman. His keen eye for trends is helping revive its faded fundamentals while introducing a fresh, holistic perspective in line with contemporary expectations.

 

Up close + personal

“It was sort of accidental, as many things are in life,” he waxes poetically when recalling the beginnings of his love affair with the beauty and personal care industry. Born in Uganda, Jatania and his family were among those who fled the country in the late 1960s, when the Indian minority was expelled by then president Idi Amin. They settled in Leicester, the UK, and eventually London. From a humble summer job in 1984 with the family business Lornamead, this youngest of four brothers became the company’s chief executive six years later, during which it expanded to an international level and was eventually strategically sold in 2013. “I enjoyed being involved in consumer-facing business and products you use, and all the things that go behind the scenes in getting such a product on the market,” he reminisces. Driven by this unrelenting commitment to bringing excellent goods and services to customers, Jatania speaks with vibrant ambition about his enduring motivation to meet the ever-evolving needs of market demands while preserving a distinct sense of care and intimacy.

Asked what he considers the primary drivers to success, Jatania is quick to identify his sharp focus on the parts of the industry he wanted to build the business on and solid sense of growth direction — from distribution to development to acquisition — as immutable factors. But when it comes to the biggest thing, he reverts effortlessly to the importance of maintaining a clear, purposeful and human-centric angle: “Some of it is due to [a] really obsessive passion about ensuring you’re really delivering on the proposition you’re marketing and selling. The brand must have a real clarity about its purpose, who it is appealing to, what it is delivering to the customer and the gap it’s filling in the marketplace. Those are critical in a fast-moving sector — and especially with things you’re putting on your skin, hair and body. Literally, you have to take it personally! You need to have an interest in the formulations and packaging.”

Not every venture is an overnight hit, however, and Jatania is equally insistent that perseverance and adaptability are undeniable ingredients in ensuring a company thrives — and continues to do so. “Life always brings you challenges. You’ve got to have resilience to that, and flexibility and moving with [the] times are essential. I’ve had the pleasure of working with and owning organisations that have had hundreds of years of history. For example, Yardley was launched in 1770; when I acquired it in 2005, it had already existed for 300 years. To take it into the future, however, you have to respect the past but also evolve the proposition, make it relevant again to the people and drive innovation to meet their needs.”

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The Body Shop opened its latest branch in Mid Valley, Kuala Lumpur, late last year (Photo: The Body Shop)

Body + soul

For many, The Body Shop has been a household name long before more recent competitors such as Lush or Bath & Body Works came into the limelight on the beauty and personal care scene. But until recently, a cursory internet search about its history would yield article after article on how the shining symbol of activism and female empowerment fell prey to the claws of capitalism.

Things began to wither after its sale to French cosmetics giant L’Oréal, followed by a series of acquisitions by other companies during which, Jatania believes, the instrumental “founder’s soul” was drowned out through cultural and corporate strategy changes. “When we acquired it … it was in a very stressed situation, where the supply chain had been disrupted, innovation had been stopped, new product development was not taking place, stores were being closed and staff was being reduced. The business was in a state of turmoil. What was attractive about a business like that to me?” he laughs.

Between its existing presence across 70 countries globally and retail value of more than US$1.2 billion, Jatania saw beyond The Body Shop’s distress to resonate with the truly powerful fundamentals at its core — an enduring identity that continues to speak to the social and environmental goals of today. “Despite its challenges, there was an incredibly strong foundation, with history and relevance to now and the future, because of its ethical sourcing, sustainability, activism and central purpose of doing well through doing good.” Jatania pinpoints a strong founder-led story, differentiated products and willingness to embrace the firm’s external management offerings as primary pillars of investment, whereby Auréa is able to evolve its brand potential and elevate it to a global level.

In addition to advocating for positivity, the cosmetics company meets another deeply important demand, and one gaining more and more momentum in the industry: the use of plant-based approaches. “Before, it was all about [the word] ‘natural’ — that alone ticked the box. Sometimes, however, such ingredients were not as efficacious as chemical alternatives, but this has moved on a lot. This is a very interesting trend going forward and it brings a requirement to have efficacy in what you’re producing through plant-based ingredients and technology.” Growing preference for organic formulations has come with increased awareness of the harmful potential of synthetic chemicals for both personal and planetary health. In 2022, the Soil Association reported that sales of organic health and beauty products in the UK approached US$182.94 million, in stark comparison to a mere US$38.9 million a decade ago.

On these counts, The Body Shop’s community-driven and green-focused ethos — as verified by its B-Corp status attained in 2014 — could not have been a better fit for Auréa’s portfolio. So, what does a billion-dollar company makeover look like? Well, it begins with rightsizing the organisation, says the chairman, who adds that the last decade’s growth had in fact dampened the business’ nimbleness and ability to react in a fast-moving environment. This shift aims not only to save costs and increase profitability but also drive innovation, development, execution, market delivery and local sourcing, and with greater swiftness. By achieving an efficient supply chain capable of responding to global price changes and pressures, Jatania expects the company will become better equipped to face the increasingly value-focused consumer of today.

This restructuring is coupled with a strengthening of the leadership and management teams. “We’re bringing in a new [chief marketing officer], a new chief financial officer and operating officer, together with new CEO Charles Denton. He comes to us from a background in Molton Brown. I believe we now have the leadership team to give The Body Shop the real long-term stability, leadership and execution it needs to delight our customers.”

Setting his sights on the future, Jatania is prioritising omnichannel availability for buyers to access their products, noting both in-store and e-commerce routes as well as other retail formats such as wholesale. Providing an invaluable shopping experience remains at the peak of his vision. “Communicating our purpose-led brand is going to be a very important thing in separating us from others,” he insists, stressing that innovation to drive further footfall and knowledgeable store staff are instrumental to defining its direction and pulling ahead of the competition. “[People] want ingredients that are not just ethically sourced, but also effective on the skin.  They want a lot for their money now, which actually is a great challenge, and we have to rise to it by delivering value-for-money, sustainable and efficacious goods.”

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Among her business policies, Roddick opted for unfussy packaging that could be easily refilled (Photo: The Body Shop)


Glowing up

If you were to run and pick up a random tube, jar or palette from your vanity or bathroom shelf, there is a high chance that as you scan the packaging, you will spot at least one of the following symbols or trigger words — the Leaping Bunny motif, the universal recycling symbol, the words “cruelty-free”, “clean” or “earth-friendly”. These emblems and terms are everywhere in the beauty and self-care market. In fact, products without them can be a red flag for many.

As hyperconsumerism and fast-moving trend cycles continue to muddy the waters of the cosmetics scene, Jatania hopes support from Auréa will enable The Body Shop to turn the tables and regain its footing as a trailblazer for socially responsible consumption. “The Body Shop was a leader in its field and, in the recent past, it has become a follower,” he says. “It needs to find its voice again, one that has a tone of leadership, and become very clear in what it stands for. Of course, it’s going to continue to be sustainable and ethical, but many other companies now are also against animal testing, for the environment and doing good for communities. These have become shared values. What [we] have to do is to stand for something differentiated, clear and meaningful but true to our soul.”

While it is still too early to say what lies ahead, for Jatania, the sustainability leader’s revival will boil down to a few key areas: innovating with purpose to develop products and experiences that resonate and evolve with patrons; implementing sustainability at scale, which will include expanding refill services and furthering the use of ethically sourced ingredients; “seamlessly connecting physical and digital touchpoints to provide a cohesive and consumer-first experience”; highlighting local stories and heritage while meeting the needs of global markets; and embodying a bold, purpose-driven and customer-connected identity.

These developments come at a pivotal moment in the brand’s progression — its 50th anniversary — and Jatania is seizing the opportunity to hone in on its identity, purpose and public image. “We have this chance to communicate very clearly what The Body Shop stands for to the good people who work within it, our partners around the world and the public in terms of why they’re buying from us, reaching their hearts and minds. The heart will say this is a business that’s doing well and the mind will tell them these are good products they want to put on their skin and hair, and it has the right ingredients that are efficacious and up to date.”

Despite rising demand for eco-friendly offerings, not all market players are making the shift in legitimate ways, and differentiating actual ethical brands from haphazard imposters has become all the more necessary. The recent onslaught of “green-washing”, or the practice of falsely slapping claims of sustainability onto labels without solid action or proven methods to back it up, is a prominent industry issue that Jatania wishes to scrub. To walk the talk, his plans in the coming months include introducing more sustainable packaging, expanding refilling services, coming up with exciting and innovative launches as well as drawing inspiration from local ingredients, traditions and crafts not only to help consumers channel their best self, but simultaneously bring the beauty of the region to the global market.

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The tea tree range of skincare products targets blemishes and greasiness (Photo: The Body Shop)


True beauty

Intersectionality is the backbone of addressing society’s needs, even when it comes to beauty. So, sustainability is not the only area that Jatania is attempting to advance. “Inclusivity has always been central to The Body Shop’s values. From the beginning, we’ve broken beauty stereotypes and stood for ethical consumerism with a purpose-led approach. As we evolve, we will ensure we are consumer-centric at every stage of development,” he assures.

For those familiar with Dcypher, another investment by Auréa, Jatania’s emphasis on these values come as no surprise, sparking hope for what is to come for The Body Shop. You would think that, in current times, you should be able to waltz into any cosmetics store and easily find a product that matches your colour and undertone, but in reality many women (especially those with darker skin) struggle to obtain the perfect match. Much to their chagrin, manufacturers spring into action only when criticised and “cancelled” — such as California-based Shark Tank company YouthForia, which went viral in May last year for a skin tint so dark and dimensionless critics dubbed it “tar in a bottle”. Even then, some still fail to do the matter justice.

Auréa’s experience with Dcypher paves the way for more cutting-edge technology to be integrated at The Body Shop. Jatania says: “This is one category with which women all over the world have been dissatisfied, in terms of matching the tone of their skin with foundation. Some larger companies come up with 50 shades and they want all women to fit into those. That’s not diversity. Dcypher has developed this technology that, through your phone camera, deciphers your tone and texture and colour to then hyper-personalise a foundation specifically for you with 96% accuracy. We’re seeking to change the way women buy foundation, because once you have your favourite one that works, you tend to be very loyal to it. You change lipsticks, nail polish, eyeshadows because of trends — but foundation is your base coat. If you find a great formulation and colour match, you don’t have to mix two or three different ones and waste product or money, plus it’s not good for the environment.”

Gender-neutrality is another topic that has split the beauty community in recent years. Through packaging and marketing, manufacturers have long drawn the line between women’s and men’s grooming. Mainstream male grooming is often limited to basics and multi-purpose items (in blue, black or grey packaging with rugged, macho descriptions such as “icy fresh”, “urban” and “powerful”, of course), making more “feminine” choices intimidating and even emasculating to venture into.

An avid user of skincare himself (“I’ve probably been using it since I was 11 years old!”), Jatania intends to erase this boundary for The Body Shop’s target audience. “Over the past few years, we’ve witnessed a significant shift in consumer behaviour, with men and people of all genders embracing personal care and beauty products. This shift reflects broader cultural changes where self-care, wellness and individuality are celebrated, regardless of gender. Inclusivity has always been part of our DNA. We’ve championed products and campaigns that speak to everyone — creating an open, welcoming space for consumers to explore their needs without judgment,” he notes. The brand’s tea tree range, for example, is just one of several bestsellers beloved by buyers of all genders, expressions and experience levels for its ability to tackle universal skin concerns.

As he and The Body Shop’s team settle into 2025, he is starting this new era with a fresh communication style that authentically and meaningfully reflects its diverse base, which will be the first step towards refining its offerings to cater for more needs and demands as well as working with grassroots communities and global partners to infuse each tub, jar and bottle with stories and perspectives that matter.

Just like fashion, finding the right beauty and self-care items takes trial and error. First-timers entering this realm, full of confusing terminology and divided opinions, may feel daunted and even excluded by brands that overlook certain demographics. With Jatania helming the ship, it seems like The Body Shop will soon be one of few exceptions, embodying one-size-fits-all principles that welcome everyone to feel and look good just as they are.

 

This article first appeared on Jan 13, 2025 in The Edge Malaysia.

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