Xue Lei dress (All photos: Emcee Couture)
It matters not how far we are from home or how long we have been away — heritage is something that always takes us back to our roots. For Chinese communities and diasporas around the globe, the Lunar New Year in particular can intensify longing for old-school, traditional comforts. From learning recipes handed down through generations to decorating the abode with red to invite luck, these little things can bridge generational gaps and bring us closer to our own culture and ancestors.
For designer Meichi Phoon, cheongsam — wearing, designing and making them — continues to link her not only to her ethnicity, but also to her mother. “My mum taught me how to use a sewing machine from a young age. She herself had a bit of experience in dressmaking — you know how in the past it was important for people to learn these skills,” she says.
While studying food science in university, sewing was a passion Phoon always found herself returning to and, eventually, it sparked the beginnings of a business. “Back then, I was making clothes to wear to my classes the next week and taking headless photos of them to post online,” she laughs. “People started to want to buy these pieces in their own size, and I would get all their measurements and mail the finished items out. That’s how things started.”
In 2009, she launched her own label, Emcee Couture, focusing on custom sizing and bespoke garments for special occasions. Emcee Bridal was later introduced as a dedicated space for customers looking for wedding gowns. “We were making so many bridal pieces and the marketing was getting a little all over the place. So we decided to separate the content, mainly for our social media and website.”
Following a slight rebranding five years ago, both labels are now under one umbrella brand — byMeichi — with Couture producing the yearly Chinese New Year collection.
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This year’s release, “An Ode to Traditions”, is Phoon’s way of immortalising the customs of those who came before her. She notes how in modern times, especially among the youth, upholding these traditions are often afterthoughts. It requires determination, passion and a deep understanding of how important these practices are to bring them into the future. “Tradition to me is a sense of discipline to become familiar with the things our grandparents and parents do and prioritise. As society modernises, a lot of things are taken lightly and forgotten. Tradition is about nostalgia and keeping up with what those before us have done, whether it’s cultural, religious or a unique family custom.”
In tribute to the history of cheongsam, classic features are prominent throughout the looks, namely floral motifs, which Phoon insists are a must-have for the season. “The occasion is about welcoming spring, when flowers bloom, and it’s also the time we crave vibrant colours. Some people might not be keen on dresses that are too red or bright, but having floral elements is always a staple for us.” To accompany the feminine prints and appliques, elaborate jacquard fabrics, mandarin collars and pankou closures also adorn several pieces, giving them timeless flair.
There is always much debate on whether traditions can be modified and adapted to suit modern lifestyles, as certain practices can be considered near sacred for many, especially if associated with superstitious beliefs. However, Phoon believes the key to preserving the art of cheongsam lies in modernising. Hence, this year’s designs experiment with shapes and silhouettes to offer something exciting for the contemporary shopper. For example, the Xue Lei dress adopts a youthful bell skirt, while the tent-shaped Hui Juin and Li Rei (a personal favourite of Phoon’s) mesh comfort and fashion. Separates that can be worn together, as well as mix and matched, have also been very popular, Phoon notes, as they are versatile and easier to style on a daily basis.
“You can sport the two pieces as a set and look very coordinated for an event or with your other clothes to take them beyond Chinese New Year. There are many clients who want one or two pieces in a very classic body-skimming fit, so we continue to create those. That said, Chinese New Year is a 15-day celebration, and while there may be fancy dinners and big open houses, many happenings still take place just within the home. You may wish to dress up, but you don’t want to feel restricted in your clothing. We’ve also noticed that clients of different races are excited about [the tent dress] because it’s not shaped like a traditional cheongsam and can be donned in different settings for years to come.”
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An advocate for wearing cheongsam all year round, Phoon hopes her label can inspire more people to marry oriental attire with their regular wardrobe, using byMeichi’s newly opened store in Bangsar as a starting point. She says: “It is the exact reason I decided to go into retail. I want to break away from the idea that cheongsam should only be worn for cultural events or weddings. A lot of people ask me, ‘Since you specialise in cheongsam, what do you sell after Chinese New Year?’ I say we have a really modern aesthetic, and when it comes to traditional wear, we like to borrow details like high collars and embroidery. There are so many ways to incorporate these designs into everyday outfits while keeping things fresh and modern. That’s what we want to bring to the market.”
In the Year of the Snake, which is correlated with wisdom, charm and transformation, Phoon aspires to take byMeichi to new heights and utilise the retail outlet as a platform to reach a wider audience. “[Operating the establishment] has been very interesting and very different,” she mentions. “After doing customisation for a long time, this is a whole different ball game. I have to be on the ground every day to learn, so I try to come in to observe the traffic and get a sense of what people like.” She wishes to stock the boutique with many different things in the months to come, including pieces for Hari Raya and the year-end gala season, hoping that all who visit will find something beautiful for the next celebration in their life while getting a taste of the culture closest to her heart.
To browse and purchase the collection, visit bymeichi.com or swing by the retail space at Bangsar Village 2, Kuala Lumpur.
This article first appeared on Jan 20, 2025 in The Edge Malaysia.
