Mona Kosar Abdi donned a red gown from Ivan Young, made from silk crepe and chiffon, complete with drapes, ruching and a cape that pooled around her feet (Photo: Mona Kosar Abdi)
Revered American fashion photographer Bill Cunningham once said, “Fashion is the armour to survive the reality of everyday life”, and there are few aesthetics that encapsulate this better than Black dandyism, a cultural and style movement pioneered by impeccably dressed young men who immigrated to the Americas during the transatlantic slave trade.
Inspired by the sharp sensibilities of European fashion leaders of the 1700s and 1800s (Beau Brummell, close friend of King George IV, is often cited as a key reference), it boomed during the 20th century, resonating with the Harlem Renaissance from the 1910s to 1930s and the Black Liberation movement of the 1960s.
Passed down by the likes of poet Langston Hughes and abolitionist Frederick Douglass to modern Hollywood icons such as Billy Porter and Pharrell Williams, Black dandyism is more than just being dressed to the teeth. In the smart blending of African textiles and American streetwear — the dichotomy between the wearer’s dark skin tone and clothing invented with the White male in mind — lies protest and desire to go against social convention, even if it risks disapproval. It began as and remains, at its core, a method for the marginalised, disenfranchised and underrated among us to make a statement, reclaiming power and sense of self in environments that historically sidelined them. At the 2025 Met Gala, the movement that influenced so much of contemporary fashion finally received its flowers, becoming the focus of the Costume Institute’s ongoing exhibition Superfine: Tailoring Black Style and the event’s dress code “Tailored for You”.
Naturally, an abundance of suave suits (perhaps the most on-the-nose reference to the theme), as well as frocks with collars, padded shoulders and pinstripes meant to emulate suits, made their appearance. Dazzled by the swarm of stars and press who swanned onto the daisy-spotted lapis-hued carpet sporting customs and couture from fashion’s biggest behemoths, much of the global eye who tuned in to watch the carpet live stream while furiously splashing scathing opinions across social media like moral duty, overlooked the theme’s key demand — that the clothes, regardless of the name on their tags, be deftly fashioned, as if made specifically for the wearer.
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A scarlet gown crafted from luxurious silk crepe and chiffon donned by journalist Mona Kosar Abdi perfectly exemplified this criterion. Meticulously draped and ruched, the piece’s bodice pinched in at her waist before flaring out into a floor-scraping skirt with a sensual high slit to reveal pointed ruby pumps. Her bobbed hair was slicked and adorned with shimmering pearl accents. Instead of a necklace, a scarf tied into a plush bow was wrapped around her neck. The final touch was a cascading cape that pooled around her feet and swished around as she moved, creating head-to-toe grandeur.
This striking dress marked a Met Gala debut for Malaysian label Ivan Young, an independent womenswear house half a world away. Jane Tan — who founded the company, along with sister Elle, in 2016 after meeting the namesake designer through a mutual friend — illustrates a sort of fashion kismet when talking about Abdi and the red dress. “Her body measurements aligned perfectly with our sizing, which made it seamless for her to select a piece from our archive that fit beautifully.”
Though not bespoke, the rouge number from Ivan Young’s most recent couture collection seemed almost destined to be worn by her. “The gown is a vibrant masterpiece showcasing sharp, architectural tailoring that beautifully accentuated Mona’s poise,” Tan says. “It perfectly embodied the ‘Tailored for You’ theme, fitting her as though custom-made to highlight her unique individuality and presence. The design seamlessly blended classic couture techniques with modern aesthetics, making it both a striking statement and an impeccable choice for the grandeur of the Met Gala.”
What really made the brand an ideal pick for the Met was its ethos, which Tan describes as “rooted in the celebration of life and the joy of living”. She says the team “draws inspiration from profound feelings of love and connection, organic forms found in nature and the vibrant energy of modern women. Our designs emphasise fluidity, blending refined craftsmanship with soft, flowing elements. Each piece is thoughtfully crafted to be a statement, encouraging wearers to express themselves and celebrate life every time they wear it”.
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Much like the Black dandy’s resolve to use clothes as a means to take up social and even political space, the ideal Ivan Young woman lets her outfits do the talking.
“Our designs speak to women who view fashion as a powerful form of personal storytelling,” explains Tan. “Style is a powerful tool for empowerment and self-expression. Ivan Young inspires women to own their narrative and celebrate their individuality. We believe clothing can boost confidence, strengthen identity and bridge cultures. Each collection is a call to embrace authenticity and wear your story boldly and unapologetically.”
Ivan Young’s milestone Met Gala feature is also a reminder that highlighting smaller, independent maisons from all corners of the earth, especially on the global fashion stage oversaturated with trends and looks determined by the West, is crucial if we wish to see meaningful creation.
Tan puts it best: “Independent designers bring fresh perspectives, cultural richness and innovation that challenge the status quo. Large platforms like the Met Gala shape global fashion narratives, so including our voices is essential for diversity and creativity. It also empowers emerging talents and showcases the depth of artistry beyond the established giants, enriching the industry as a whole.”
This article first appeared on June 2, 2025 in The Edge Malaysia.
