The new Van Cleef & Arpels Extraordinary Dials collection traces a love story from Chinese folklore

The romantic legend behind the Qixi Festival is immortalised in two delicate timepieces from the maison.

The Lady Rencontre Céleste and Lady Retrouvailles Célestes (All photos: Van Cleef & Arpels)

Since their debut in the early 1940s, whimsical fairies have served as benevolent muses for celebrated jeweller Van Cleef & Arpels (VCA). Instantly recognisable by their rose-cut diamond faces and diaphanous wings, these delicate creatures have brought a sense of wonder and enchantment to the maison’s high jewellery collections and elaborate timepieces.

Over the decades, the fairy has been reinterpreted in countless forms — suspended mid-flight with wings outstretched, nestled within a swirl of petals or mischievously raising a wand to cast a spell. This year’s creation, however, moves beyond the usual sprite-like silhouette and brings a central figure of Chinese folklore to life, tracing the romantic legend of star-crossed lovers.

High in the celestial realm lived Zhinü, a fairy who wove colourful clouds for the sky. One day, she descended to Earth with her six sisters to bathe in a secluded stream. Watching from afar, a lonely cowherd named Niulang, accompanied by his loyal ox, was transfixed by the scene and hid a piece of garment left on the bank. Frightened, the six sisters got dressed and took flight as doves, leaving Zhinü to negotiate for her purloined robes. Sparks flew instead, and she agreed to his proposal of marriage. Together, they built a joyful life blessed with two children, that is, until the Goddess of Heaven discovered their forbidden union.

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The motifs are carved into a metal plate before being filled with enamel

Outraged, the goddess dragged Zhinü back to heaven. Guided by his noble ox’s final gift — a hide capable of flight — Niulang soared into the sky with his children in hot pursuit. Seeing his approach, the furious goddess drew her hairpin and slashed a wide and shimmering Silver River across the cosmos, locking the lovers on opposite shores forever.

Moved by the couple’s grief, nature itself intervened. Every year, on the seventh day of the seventh lunar month, thousands of magpies flock together to form a fluttering bridge over the Milky Way, allowing Niulang and Zhinü to hold each other once more. In the late summer night sky, this myth comes alive as the stars Altair and Vega — representing Niulang and Zhinü — draw close together. Their reunion marks the Qixi Festival, or Chinese Valentine’s Day, where modern couples honour the enduring power of love.

While the tale of the cowherd and weaver girl has inspired paintings, woodblock prints and folk art for centuries, VCA reimagines it through high watchmaking, sublimely encompassing their wistful romance.

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A combination of champlevé and grisaille enamel gives the dial a 'chiaroscuro' effect

The Lady Rencontre Céleste reveals the beginning of the lovers’ courtship, immortalising their encounter under the gentle glow of the moon. Clasping each other’s hands, Niulang and Zhinü are framed against a star-studded night sky. The glittering background comprises a champlevé enamel base with grisaille enamel stars, which draws forth a mesmerising chiaroscuro effect.  The motifs are created by carving detailed chambers into precious metal, filling them with successive layers of enamel and firing the piece after each application. A final lapidary polishing eliminates excess material to reveal a smooth, flawless finish. The dial is further embellished with a subtle sapphire crescent with the setting beads coloured using the miniature painting technique. 

Meanwhile, on the dial of the Lady Retrouvailles Célestes, champlevé enamel and mother-of-pearl form a tempest of pink, mauve and mulberry, its vivid swirls capturing the depth of the couple’s emotional longing. With arms outstretched towards each other, the two figures seem to be awaiting their reunion as sculpted white gold birds gather among the translucent plique-à-jour clouds at their feet. Framed by a 33mm rose gold case, this dial is made up of 13 individual layers that required more than 120 hours of craftsmanship.

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The Summer Triangle asterism is engraved on the casebacks of both timepieces

On both timepieces, the 18-carat white gold figures feature rose-cut diamond faces, a signature VCA technique that imparts delicate expression. They also showcase a patented savoir faire developed over two years that sets precious stones directly onto enamel without visible metal, lending the gems an effortless weightless feel. The story continues with a hand-engraved scene on the caseback, where up to 20 hours of meticulous work was needed to depict the Summer Triangle, showcasing the stars of Vega, Altair and Deneb (which plays the role of the magpie bridge).

Powered by a mechanical winding movement, the watches, each limited and numbered to eight pieces only, have a power reserve of 36 hours.

The Lady Rencontre Céleste and Lady Retrouvailles Célestes take their rightful place within the maison’s Extraordinary Dials collection, a space where master watchmakers collaborate with enamellers, engravers, lapidaries and stone-setters. The result is pure enchantment, rooted in the maison’s uniquely poetic view of the world.

 

This article first appeared on Sept 7, 2026 in The Edge Malaysia. 

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