Perpetual Padellone in 950 platinum (All photos: Rolex)
You have heard of the “Pepsi”, “Batman” and “Paul Newman” — affectionate monikers bestowed upon Holy Grails by devout Rolex fans. Now, for the first time in its history, the Swiss manufacture is adopting a nickname for one of its models — and it is probably not the icon you would expect.
In the late 1940s, Rolex launched Reference 8171, a triple calendar that indicated the day, date and month alongside a moonphase. A rare complication and one of the most mechanically intricate timepieces in the brand’s historic line-up, it was produced in extremely limited quantities for a brief period until the early 1950s. Today, this vintage number routinely fetches upwards of six figures at auction, with bidders eagerly calling out for the famous “Padellone”.
Padellone is Italian for “large frying pan” — yes, precisely the kind used for a golden, crispy frittata — and the Reference 8171 was dubbed as such because it featured an unusually generous 38mm case (bold by the era’s standards) and flat proportions, with a slightly domed dial. It was only fitting, then, that the new Perpetual Padellone was announced in Italy, the very place where astute collectors first coined its witty handle.
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The Padellone takes its place alongside the 1908 in the Perpetual collection, not to be confused with the calendar complication. Here, the “Perpetual” designation honours Rolex’s self-winding mechanical movement, continuously recharged by the wearer’s daily movements. The Padellone, though, is in fact an annual calendar and an instantaneous one at that. At the stroke of midnight, the date, day and month change at once — a feature for which a patent application has been filed.
On first impression, the watch is undeniably handsome. Thoughtfully balanced, the dial — grained finished in the middle and satin finished around the edge — doffs its hat to the layout of its vintage counterpart while remaining crisp and modern. The day and month appear in two apertures at 12 o’clock, while a blue hand with a crescent moon at its tip points to the date set out around the dial circumference.
At 6 o’clock, a midnight-blue enamelled disc forms the background to a full and new moon, both crafted in meteorite, with the latter treated with a dark PVD coating. The moonphase makes a complete rotation every lunar month, or 29.53 days, but unlike conventional indicators, information is not shown by way of partially obscuring the satellite. Instead, both are put on display to illustrate the time elapsed between one new moon and the next. A face is pad-printed on the meteorite as a whimsical nod to the original timepiece, which also portrayed a curious visage surrounded by stars.
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The new timepiece is a tiny bit bigger, at 39mm, to house Calibre 7190, an evolution of the groundbreaking Calibre 7135 introduced last year with the launch of the Land-Dweller. Visible through the transparent caseback, a cut-out oscillating weight in yellow gold, bridges decorated with Rolex Côtes de Genève, and an interplay of finishings unite to create a beautifully harmonious aesthetic. The movement beats at a high frequency of 5Hz and is equipped with Rolex’s silicon Syloxi hairspring, ceramic balance staff as well as the revolutionary Dynapulse escapement.
Calibre 7190 also inaugurates Rolex’s Haplos system, which automatically accounts for 30- and 31-day months, so the wearer will need to correct the date only once a year at the end of February. The moonphase and calendar indications can be adjusted safely at any time of day without risking damage to the movement. Setting the functions is seamless, using an included stylus applied to four discreet correctors along the sides of the case middle.
The Perpetual Padellone debuts in 950 platinum with Rolex’s signature ice-blue dial and an elegant matte-black alligator leather strap. But the standout is the 18-carat Everose gold edition with its intense white dial. While it looks exceptionally sharp on a rich brown alligator strap, the real showstopper is pairing it with the Settimo bracelet. Crafted specifically for the Perpetual collection, it features seven polished rows of gold links that drape effortlessly on the wrist.
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All timekeepers in the perpetual collection carry the Superlative Chronometer certification, strengthened in 2026 with three new testing criteria: resistance to magnetism, reliability and sustainability. They supplement governing benchmarks for precision, waterproofness, self-winding and autonomy.
Part tribute to collector lore, part triumph of contemporary engineering, the Perpetual Padellone proves that Rolex still knows how to surprise us. By pairing vintage-inspired proportions with modern horological cleverness, the maison has delivered a timepiece that feels both deeply respectful of its 1950s roots and thoroughly crafted for today. The original Padellone may have earned its moniker as a charming anomaly, but this evolution stands as one of the most compelling dress watches of the year.
This article first appeared on Oct 5, 2026 in The Edge Malaysia.
