Left: (Photo: Boys Don't Fry), Right: (Photo: Lad & Dad)
The F&B scene is fiercely competitive, and being hailed as the best spot in town for a particular dish or cuisine is one of the highest honours internet foodies can bestow. That is why it is rare to find two eateries serving the exact same thing within arm’s reach of each other. When this unusual phenomenon does happen, there is only one thing to do: a head-to-head crawl to see which truly comes out on top. This week’s contenders? Two fish-and-chip joints tucked inside Wisma Cosway, Kuala Lumpur.
First up is Boys Don’t Fry, or just BDF. Started by Tony Gray, who hails from Manchester and is married to a local, this place not only serves up the quintessential British fare but also curates a nostalgic, no-frills experience for anyone who has a soft spot for the UK. A playlist starring English 1980s rock royalty such as The Smiths, The Cure and The Police is on loop in the background. Simple metal folding tables and stools flank the entrance, while a row of bar-style seating can be found by the side of the shop to accommodate more diners during peak hours or solo customers.
There is a common belief that a small but focused menu is the mark of an eatery that knows what it is doing — and BDF leans into that philosophy. Its lone core item, the fish-and-chips set (RM38), is a masterclass in restraint and detail. Perch fillets come thinly battered for maximum crispiness, arriving piping hot and still moist atop a bed of golden, thick-cut chips. Nothing is weighed down by grease; in fact, you will be hard-pressed to find oil splotches on the parchment paper, even towards the end of the meal.
In true British fashion, paper cups of tartar sauce and mushy peas come with every set. The first finds the perfect balance between the creaminess of mayonnaise and tart pickles, while the second provides a nice texture variation against the crunchier elements. Pick between your choice of baked beans or house pickles (purple cabbage, cucumber and hard-boiled egg), though the latter is highly recommended for a refreshing, not-too-sour touch to cut through the fried food. From 9am to 11am, the morning crowd may also indulge in the breakfast menu-exclusive butties (sandwiches), offered in three versions — egg and chip (RM12), sausage and egg (RM18) and the BDF (RM15).
While the food is as straightforward as it gets, English cheek and love for Malaysia peek through in the beverage selection. Beyond the standard soft drinks and free refill lemonade, you may quench your thirst with caffeinated options — Higgins & Sons Terribly British Tea or coffee made with beans from Penang-based Forest Cloud Beverage Co. The must-try novelties, though, are the Long Chan sodas (RM7.90 per bottle), produced by a Melakan pop company founded in 1910. With three flavours available — Sarsi, Oren and Ais Krim — these brown glass bottles with vintage-style yellow labels give a local twist to your plate of British comforts.
Meanwhile, just a corridor away, Lad & Dad boasts, at a glance, a very similar menu but vastly different experience. Founded in 2015 by Singaporean entrepreneur Keith Koh and his dad, the franchise is a cult favourite across the Causeway. The brand made its Malaysian debut in June and quickly gained traction for its bona fide approach — ironic, considering it describes itself as “unauthentic” on its Instagram at @ladandco.sg.
This space is in stark contrast to the warm wood-covered, pub-like BDF, painted with cheery tones of bright yellow and forest green. Glowing media reviews have been printed onto small plaques lining the inside wall, almost like a promise of quality.
Yet, despite the obvious pride, Lad & Dad falls short in the exact areas that make its nearby counterpart a standout. Not only is the perch here (RM29.90 for a set) noticeably greasier — not overly so, but enough to raise eyebrows if you have just been to BDF — but the fish also leans towards the drier side. That might suit those who prefer flakier fish, but a thicker batter carries a strong unusual seasoning that seems to coat the tongue.
This leads to a second issue when you inevitably need to hydrate: the very limited drink choices. On a humid day in the city, a cup of frozen lemonade (RM9.90) with a slushie-like texture is usually welcome. At Lad & Dad, however, where it is the only beverage, the overly sweet, artificial tang quickly grows tiresome — especially when chasing oily, salty bites. If you are anything like us, you will soon be making a beeline for the nearby convenience store for some good old H2O to cleanse your palate.
One thing that does set our second fighter apart is its premium haddock (RM51.90) and interesting condiments. Tartar sauce and mushy peas are traditional, but if you are feeling experimental and want to spice things up, the curry sauce and sambal aioli might just make up for the lacklustre fish.
Additional sides such as the purple slaw and herb-and-butter corn provide some relief and help balance the meal. Overall, this eatery is a decent choice that can outshine many mid-range bistros or kopitiam Western food stalls. But if finesse matters, then its slightly pricier neighbour may be more deserving of your meal coins.
This article first appeared on Sept 8, 2025 in The Edge Malaysia.
