More than just decoration, the bed is a spot for customer to relax and let loose (Photos: Apartment 80, Genie Leong/ The Edge)
In the bustling heart of Kuala Lumpur City Centre, 80 Jalan Sultan — better known as RexKL — is one downtown address that is perpetually crawling with equal numbers of wandering tourists and the local hipster crowd, come rain or shine. Originally Rex Theatre, which opened in 1947, the building has undergone several transformations in its nearly 80-year history. It was rebuilt and re-established as Rex Cinema in 1976 following several fires, before closing down in 2002 — only to be resurrected in its current form in 2019.
Even the past couple of years alone have seen massive alterations to the space, primarily a refresh of the ground-floor dining hub Food Fiction (previously The Back Ground) and the repurposing of its large atrium — once a common venue for live music events — into immersive art haven Rexperience. While the labyrinth-like shelves of the ever-popular BookXcess remain a key attraction, the surrounding tenants on the upper floors have also received a facelift. They now offer local fashion labels, second-hand curios and indie F&B ventures.
One of the latest has taken over the coveted rooftop lot which, as the city’s devout foodies know, housed Shhhbuuuleee restobar up until its closure in February. Helmed by chef Mui Kai Quan, the restaurant’s sharing plates and natural wine selection — not to mention its romantic view of the surrounding concrete jungle from the open air terrace — made it a favourite for laid-back suppers and date nights. Part of the establishment’s charm lay in stumbling across it while exploring the bookstore’s nooks and crannies, like chancing upon a speakeasy. In a building so well-known and patronised, who wouldn’t want their own IYKYK corner?
Now, Mui (whose résumé includes the three Michelin-starred Maaemo in Oslo and London’s two Michelin-starred The Ledbury, as well as contemporary Malaysian diner Chocha Foodstore), is switching things up with Apartment 80. Much of the old interior has been kept, with most of the seating options still in a casual communal style. A curved wooden counter with fabric upholstered bar stools preludes a more ordinary dining table set-up. The most popular seat in the house, though, is a sheeted mattress and duvet in the middle of the room, complete with a small bedside table for a late-night munchies moment. Customers are welcome to lounge and get comfy here, though dozing off into a full-fledged nap is probably ill-advised.
From a window peering into the kitchen, you get glimpses of the chef at work as he plates up each order, resembling an omakase experience — and when you look at the menu, the approach here does not feel all that far from the Japanese concept. Developed by experimenting and having fun in the kitchen, the concise offerings are Mui’s reinterpretations of classic desserts and sweet snacks, dreamt up in ways that give diners a different perspective on nostalgic flavours and beloved confections.
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First on the must-try list is Chocolate (RM28). Thinking about the flavour, one probably envisions dense decadence and a sticky sweetness that lingers on the palate, begetting a swift swig of water and reflections along the lines of “Maybe I don’t have space for dessert after all”. This dish does none of that. Scoops of frozen mousse made from locally sourced cacao beans boast a texture so airy yet silky, you could devour the entire plate alone and not fall victim to the dreaded jelak (cloying) sensation. Shards of thin, ultra-crisp husk cookies offer a satisfying crunch to intermit the fluffy base. The salty umami of a drizzle of miso ganache, further enhanced by a sprinkle of flaky sea salt, brings out the earthier, bittersweet notes in the chocolate.
Meanwhile, the best-selling Fig Tart (RM24) occupies the lighter, juicier end of the dessert spectrum. A disc of buttery sablé cookie — delicate but not so crumbly that it completely turns to sand the moment you cut into it — acts as the pastry. Then comes a layer of custard, dyed pink and just slightly floral from roselle buds. A zigzag of pale yellow lime custard provides extra tang for a glossy fig compote topping. Rather than a typical jam that has a near-puréed texture, the fruit is cut into chunky quarters and cooked down just enough to soften and bring out the natural honeyed notes. To go with it all, a dollop of fig leaf sabayon sits on the side.
One dish where you might need to use a little imagination to grasp what the chef is trying to accomplish is the Kuih Seri Muka (RM24). What arrives at the table is nothing close to the pandan custard and glutinous rice combo Malaysians adore. Instead, you get three squares of pumpkin cake, topped with tamarind gel, mixed seed granola and a scoop of purple rice sorbet reminiscent of black glutinous rice aiskrim potong found at your neighbourhood grocer.
It is safe to assume that Mui is taking inspiration from the pumpkin rendition of the traditional treat, which delivers a more subtle sweetness and is sometimes paired with pulut hitam instead of the plain white or butterfly pea-dyed rice you get with the common pandan version. Shredded coconut has been integrated into the granola as a nod to the method of cooking the rice in santan. The cake is on the denser side, which may seem odd at first but, on second thought, could be a deliberate choice to emulate the consistency of real seri muka.
Apartment 80’s other highlights include a hojicha tiramisu and doughnuts served with banana sorbet and compote. With the desserts in the spotlight, the beverage options take a bit of a backseat — standard but nothing mind-blowing (with specialty brewer Stellar Coffee on RexKL’s ground floor, there really is nothing much to complain about). We find that the sweets are polished off quickly when shared among company and are tasty enough to warrant a plate scraping. That alone is worth a return visit.
Apartment 80 is open Tues to Sun, noon to 10pm.
This article first appeared on April 6, 2026 in The Edge Malaysia.
