The bistro sits on the mezzanine level of Menara Access World (All photos: Sam Fong/ The Edge)
Blurring the lines between French bistro fare and spicy Thai flavours is Andy Choy’s THB Bistronome. The money-minded would immediately cotton on to the Thai baht acronym but the baby-faced chef owner insists it stands for “The Humble Beginning” as well. “That was actually my first choice for the restaurant’s name,” he says. “I have been working in fine dining for so many years that I wanted something more modest, more down to earth.”
The runaway success of N.I.C.E Bistronome (Choy’s two-year-old Côte d’Azur-inspired restaurant that shook up the culinary cognoscenti when it opened in the heart of Seksyen 19, a rustic neighbourhood famed for its hawker food, local coffee shops and lively wet market) certainly provided him with the confidence to expand. Looking closer to home this time, THB serves as a platform to showcase Choy’s classical French technique but jazzed up by the oomph of Thai flavours and spice.
Located on the mezzanine level of Menara Access World (Petaling Jaya folks would remember several iterations of the building, including Menara Merais and Menara AmFirst), THB, which opened on Jan 8, is flanked by the iconic Rothmans Roundabout on its right and seafood legend Green View Restaurant on its left.
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Born in Penang, an island whose geographical proximity to Thailand naturally means an overlap in produce and ingredients, Choy, 40, recalls his first introduction to Thai food. “It was so memorable that I still remember thinking how exotic and flavourful the tastes were, after all these years,” shares the chef who started cooking at the tender age of nine. “In 2015, while in Beijing, I had the opportunity to work alongside a Thai chef for three years and I made sure to learn all the basic dishes and cooking techniques. I kept all the recipes in my heart and mind — until now.”
With THB fusing the food of his memories with his signature French flair, what diners can hope to discover is the best coming-together of two worlds, each with its own distinctive culinaria. Star dishes include a crab omelette soufflé (RM46) that somehow evokes Jay Fai of Bangkok as well as Le Récamier of Paris’ Saint-Germain-des-Prés; a bouillabaisse tom yum (RM50), made with red snapper and saffron and whose zing and tang keeps the dreaded jelak feeling well away; and even the modest-sounding fried rice, luxed up with beef and bone marrow (RM68). “You must also try our signature roast duck,” he says. “It is perfect for pairing with a Chablis or nice Pinot Noir.”
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On how he attains balance, Choy credits his team, namely Kuik Wei Han who looks after THB’s kitchen while Kenny Tang attends to N.I.C.E. “I make it a point to travel to Bangkok twice a year but you will see me heading there more often now that I have THB,” he adds. “It would be great to do collaborations as well with chefs from Thailand — to increase our understanding of their cuisine and also how to incorporate more Thai ingredients and techniques into our current repertoire, especially from a modern perspective.”
Asked about his current favourite dining spots in the City of Angels, he names Soma and Charmkrung, sister restaurant to the hugely popular Charmgang, right off the bat.
Choy’s focus is also on building up CKT Traiteur, his catering arm, as well as organising more sessions of the CKT Supperclub, which pops up in different places monthly. Oh, and in case you are wondering, CKT stands for Choy Kyai Tuck, the chef’s Chinese name — and not char koay teow!
M Floor, Menara Access World, Jalan 19/3, Seksyen 19, Petaling Jaya. Daily, 11am to 11pm.
This article first appeared on Mar 23, 2026 in The Edge Malaysia.
