Being a mixologist was only one of 130 items on Oh's growing bucket list (All photos: SooPhye)
A night of popular whisky sours often concludes with a dozen egg yolks destined for the bin. While they could certainly go into making a breakfast hollandaise or silky dessert custard, when stacked with the other off-cuts and byproducts from multiple long evenings, disposal is often more economical and, frankly, requires less effort.
The good news is there are increasingly more sustainable bars growing in our region that are adopting closed-loop systems to reduce their environmental footprint. In addition to smart inventory management, phasing out single-use plastics and investing in energy-efficient equipment, these businesses make it a point to be more conscious of waste, transforming excess fruit into syrups, cordials, vinegars or even ferments such as kombucha, or upcycling citrus peels to make infused spirits and dehydrated garnishes.
Sustainability takes centre stage in this year’s Hennessy MyWay competition, where bartenders are challenged to redefine mixology through environmentally conscious practices. The event champions visionaries who can weave a compelling narrative into their drinks, whether by sourcing locally, employing eco-friendly techniques or reimagining classic rituals. The Malaysian leg of the contest wrapped up in April, with Oh Chong Hau of The Nest Cocktail Bar, Penang, emerging as the national champion.
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Even before conceptualising his entry for the semi-finals, Oh had always wanted to explore beyond typical sustainable practices. He looked outwards, observing his surroundings, culture and the day-to-day life of the people living along, commuting through or working on Lebuh Melayu, where his bar is located in George Town.
Across the street at Star Hotel Coffee Shop, both the celebrated Tiger Char Koay Teow and, by afternoon, the equally famous Jit Seng Roasted Duck Rice stall draw crowds. The latter, in particular, sees long queues forming before it even opens, with the vendor often selling more than 20 whole ducks within a few hours. Oh noticed that “when they cut the duck, they sell all the portions, including the wings, but never the neck. That part is always thrown away.
“So, I was thinking whether I could do something with it, because the skin is precious. Everyone loves duck skin. If I could extract or recreate the flavour, that would be a good sustainable idea,” he says.
This particular cut is notorious, however, for being tough and chewy. To mitigate this, Oh removes the fat and meat layer attached, retaining only the shatteringly crisp skin. “Then we season with diluted malt sugar and Korean salt that has been grilled in bamboo.”
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The result is used to complete The Golden Fondue, a concoction of Hennessy VSOP, apple juice, gula kabung and pandan, topped with a creamy pumpkin cheese foam with grated aged egg yolk. The drink, meant to be enjoyed with the skin, activates both the salty and sweet receptors on the palette. At the MyWay competition, the judges were encouraged to break off a bit of the crisp and dip it into the foam à la fondue, followed by a sip. “The skin syncs very well with the pumpkin. The sweetness is balanced by the Hennessy and apple juice below,” Oh says.
While strolling the streets of George Town, it is easy to walk right past The Nest without noticing it. Only a small signage indicates the inconspicuous bar among the row of heritage shophouses. Open three days a week, the casual bolt hole is manned by a hodgepodge team of engineer, programmer and architect who happen to share the same passion for experimental mixology, along with resident cats, Whisky the Munchkin and Mi Jiu the Minuet.
All the items on the menu come with a premium food pairing. In fact, the winning Golden Fondue is a mainstay and was previously served with a blue cheese topping. “Every drink we create, we focus on flavour contrasts,” Oh says.
He recalls a dining experience at The Savoy in London that played a part in inspiring his menu structure. “We had a simple pork belly dish that came with apples served three ways: on its own, cooked down, and made into a jam. So, certain parts were crispy, sour, creamy and sweet. As it was paired with the apples, I was able to finish the whole pork belly without feeling jelak (cloying).”
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When devising their drinks, the team begins with a strategic flowchart, anchoring the main elements and then thoughtfully building outwards with complementary flavours.
Members travel frequently to expand their culinary tastes. At one point, they managed to visit 11 countries a year.
So, in case you need bar recommendations for upcoming trips, Oh’s top picks for creative cocktails are Quinary in Hong Kong, Origin Bar in Singapore and unDer Lab in Taiwan. If classic cocktails are your kryptonite, however, Bao Bei in Penang is a must-visit.
Oh admits he is ironically a lightweight, so a highball twist is often his usual order. “Otherwise, I’ll get a negroni.” If you have similar preferences, The Nest’s Osmanthus Oolong Highball is a smooth and easy aromatic tipple. Paired with a delicate sasa custard mochi wrapped in fragrant Japanese bamboo leaf, the combo is light, elegant and refreshing.
On the other hand, Mist and Tides is a white negroni-inspired cocktail that incorporates glutinous rice pu’er tea. This umami bomb is paired with fresh Hokkaido scallops seared with house-made sacha mala butter and topped with crispy duck skin.
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Several food pairings, including the mochi, are made by collaborator and friend chef Ray, who spent a number of years in Japan’s most revered kitchens. He occasionally hosts private omakase dinners through his supper club Hatsu, featuring fresh premium ingredients flown directly to his doorstep. In addition, his semi-private noodle restaurant, Suru Suru, serving the likes of matsutake kani miso ramen, is typically reserved for friends and referrals.
Oh says: “We realise there are a lot of Penangites and tourists who are willing to pay for good quality; so, we have the assurance to source for very expensive ingredients. For example, we use high-grade murasaki uni, which is sweeter and fresher than bafun uni. It’s air-flown to us on Fridays at 4pm. One box, nine servings.” A generous portion is served with a shot of shochu or gin to enhance its sweet minerality.
This bartender’s desire for discovery is not limited to cocktails. In fact, being a mixologist was only one of 130 items on his growing bucket list, which includes paragliding, seeing the Northern Lights and visiting Africa. “I explore a lot of disciplines. I’m a hypnotherapist, I do IT, I studied videography. Every year, I try to tick off four or five items from the list. No one knows when they’re going to die. But at least if I achieve something every year, I feel fulfilled.”
With his Hennessy MyWay victory, Oh will join 17 other bartenders from around the world in Cognac, France, later this year to compete in the grand finale.
This article first appeared on June 9, 2025 in The Edge Malaysia.
