Chefs YC Chong and Arnaud Dunand Sauthier in the kitchen with the team (Photo: Evian Malaysia
Along the quaint stretch of shoplots on Jalan Aminuddin Baki in Taman Tun Dr Ismail, Kuala Lumpur, Terra Dining blends in with its surroundings with intentional modesty. From the outside, nothing clamours for attention — even its logo is humbly placed against yellow-washed walls. Yet, once the wooden door swings open, the atmosphere shifts — warm timber, soft lighting and thoughtful details create a space that is calm, inviting and pleasantly intimate.
On Oct 30, this dining room hosted a special collaboration between two chefs with distinct culinary identities. Brought together by Evian, Chef YC Chong of Terra Dining and Chef Arnaud Dunand Sauthier of Bangkok’s Michelin-starred Maison Dunand crafted a six-course menu that wove together their approaches to flavour and technique. Founder of the host restaurant, Chong is known for presenting Malaysian ingredients through a refined, contemporary lens, while Sauthier’s Franco-Thai vocabulary brings structure, finesse and balance. The latter is also currently chef ambassador of Evian.
Guests had the option of accompanying the menu with Evian’s still or sparkling water, or a selection of wines that included a fragrant tuak from Sarawak and a Portuguese vintage. Even the non-alcoholic pairing was deliberate, allowing the natural purity of the spring water to highlight the subtleties of each dish.
A citrus-based welcome mocktail opened the evening on a bubbly, refreshing note. From our seats, the open kitchen offered a clear view of the team at work. Calm and steady movements came together in a quiet choreography that brought a sense of ease to the room. As each course arrived, the chefs introduced their creations, sharing brief insights into the ingredients, processes and inspirations.
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The first bites came in the form of three petite amuse-bouches, adorned with miniscule edible flowers of various hues (an element that appeared throughout the night, which we thought was a dainty touch). The opening morsel, a delicate pie tee filled with bonito tartare, guava and ensabi delivered a light crunch followed by clean, symmetrical flavours. The tartare carried a gentle smokiness, lifted by the fruit’s sweetness.
Next was a scallion puff pastry with duck rillettes — rich without being heavy, with a pastry that crumbled effortlessly. The onion tart that followed, infused with ginger and tonka, was a great shock. Despite its potentially strong ingredients, the tart was finely restrained and left us savouring the well-rounded aftertaste.
The core dishes began with Coral Grouper served with radish and lemongrass. Presented in a chilled bowl, it reimagined the beloved tom yum in an elegant, uncluttered form. Thin slices of fish and radish were arranged to resemble a rose at the centre of a broth that glistened with illuminating drops of fragrant oil. Mixing it almost felt like undoing a small work of art, but the result was a clean, sour profile that nodded to the familiar while offering something new.
The Forest Mushroom platter embraced contrast, combining a generous maitake mushroom with a bed of glistening fish roe and warm dashi. The fungi’s pleasing chew was enhanced by bursts of ikura and rice cracker pearls scattered on top. As the first warm meal, it was anchored in texture as much as it was in its bold umami flavour that totalled into concentrated savouriness.
The Jade Perch with Asam Pedas and Cherry Tomato brought a more local story to the table, with freshwater fish bred by Captain Sim Yong Wah, a former pilot and underwater photographer. His six-storey home, Oculus House, doubles as a unique aquaculture facility. The naturally fatty flesh of the protein was positively boosted by strikingly crisp skin that made the dish immediately memorable. The acidity, instead of coming from tamarind or asam jawa, was derived solely from fish fermentation, giving the sauce a tangy depth that complemented the grilled okra and pickled cherry tomatoes on the side.
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The slipper lobster course arrived with a green curry beurre blanc poured over it at the table, releasing a subtle aroma of herbs and spice. Tender meat paired well with the creamy, yet bright, sauce and cooling lift of celery as garnish.
The final savoury plate — duck breast with preserved mustard greens jus, yam and celtuce — reflected careful preparation. Sourced from Penang, the poultry was marinated for 16 hours, then hung for 11 days to develop its flavour and texture. The result was a succulent, medium-rare slice with a soy-infused richness that matched neatly with the earthy yam and thin vegetable.
Dessert carried a playful sense of surprise. A slice of pandan bread formed a base for a scoop of foie gras ice cream, accompanied by jackfruit and lime. The ice cream’s peppery, lightly spiced profile contrasted nicely with the sweetness of the pickled jackfruit, while the pandan added a familiar fragrance. What sounded unconventional on paper turned out to be unexpectedly delightful.
By evening’s end, the menu had revealed itself as a thoughtful conversation between two chefs with different culinary foundations, yet shared respect for clarity, harmony and craftsmanship. Nothing felt showy or excessive; instead, the dishes leaned on precision, composition and confidence that allowed the ingredients to speak for themselves.
Adding to the experience was Terra Dining’s comforting and attentive hospitality that ensured each guest was attended to in a heartwarming manner. As diners left, full and content, the partnership seemed to encapsulate what modern dining can be at its best: not simply fusion for novelty’s sake, but a meeting point where ideas, influences and personal histories are exchanged through food.
Together, the meeting of the two visionaries presented an equal measure of contrast, curiosity and creativity while still paying homage to familiar palates, traditional methods and our local bounty.
This article first appeared on Nov 24, 2025 in The Edge Malaysia.
