A fascinating wall of angled cuts frames the bar at Humboldt (All photos: Quincy Tan/ The Edge)
This quietly stylish location in Bukit Damansara, Kuala Lumpur, may be easy to miss if you are not looking out for the small penguin sign marking its entrance. Named after the ocean current that runs through Chile and Peru, Humboldt welcomes guests to a modern den of South American influences, showcasing a curated series of tipples and bites based on regional ingredients. Images of the Pacific coast’s native penguins are thoroughly incorporated in its interiors, from the vibrant wall illustrations down to the adorable paperclips pinned to the bill. The pièce de résistance is, of course, the bar counter at the head of the space, enclosed dramatically by an igloo-like cove of geometric facets radiating magnetic orange light.
The menu we were provided with was part of Humboldt’s soft launch selection — it having only opened earlier this month — but if these early samples are anything to go on, there is plenty to look forward to at this haunt. Fortunately for us, the slow flow of visitors during the young twilight hours treated us to a pleasantly intimate and thoughtful degree of service.
The Pisco Sour (RM58) is an expected sight for a watering hole of Peruvian persuasion. This iteration comprises the fundamentals of Waqar pisco, citrus, Andean bitters and egg white, but also enjoys the addition of mistela — a house-made wine created from super ripe muscats, juiced and allowed to ferment for several weeks to produce a remarkably floral liquid (it is also available by the glass for RM48). In the sour, it pulls the grape essence of the base spirit forward, invigorating the tangy, silky beverage with a dimension of brightness.
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In stark contrast, the Anisada (RM50) is a bold, medicinal choice. Poured tableside into a perfectly frosty coupe, the initial draws are incredibly fresh and herbaceous, owing to the use of gin sous-vide with figs, then cold-infused with eucalyptus leaves, filling the mouth with a menthol spice and bitter edge that is tamed by the low temperature. The fragrant sweetness of Aperol and honey join the symphony, while the salty saline touch rounds off this profound and harmonious profile.
For more leisurely drinking, the Vaina (RM60) is an utterly elegant design combining Hennessy VSOP, Pedro Ximénez sherry, vermouth rojo and cacao. Sumptuous, chocolatey aromas precede a palate bursting with luscious, molasses-like sweetness and a touch of oaky vanilla. The amarena cherry at the bottom of the glass highlights the fluid’s underlying fruitiness, perfuming it with an overall character of black forest gateau, flavourful yet tame.
Aside from its libations list, Humboldt also serves an array of sharable dishes and heartier plates. Though we missed out on the deep-fried rabbit, the Empanada de Pollo (RM34) made a satisfying snack between glasses, featuring a creamy, savoury filling of chicken, walnut, parmesan, egg, olive and aji amarillo peppers encased in a tender, flaky crust. A decent dish, though the serving of three may leave one wanting — future visits with a larger crowd will definitely have us giving the Yuca Frita (RM24) or variety of anticuchos a shot.
73-1, Jalan Setia Bakti, Bukit Damansara, KL. Fri-Sat, 5pm-2am; Sun, Wed and Thurs, 5pm-1am. Closed Mon and Tues.
Since debuting in December, Up & Away has been popping up on the radars of those seeking an elevated party spot. This whimsically themed venue has all the hallmarks of a Petaling Street watering hole: an inky ambience tastefully punctuated by a humble few table lamps, a busy counter enlivened with restless shakers, powerful beats streaming from the DJ booth and, of course, a line-up of traditional and experimental concoctions.
The cocktail collection here is short and sweet: five classics, each partnered with its own “not classic” spin-off (all priced at RM45). While localised riffs on martinis and margaritas are enticing, the Classic Milk Punch is a lesser-seen item, composed of rum, tea, spiced syrup, lemon, pineapple and milk — well executed, with a clean and easy tropical flavour. On the other hand, its “evil twin”, the cleverly named Tea-Rum-Misu, is a marvellous remix. Served with a nostalgic chocolate-covered wafer, this formula uniquely uses cacao rum, Tia Maria and a Marie Biscuit infusion to achieve deliciously warm, baked notes balanced by refreshing undertones of citrus and black tea.
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If you have crawled through their Instagram page, you may have already seen a slew of stories raving about the Banana-Rum-Ma, a play on an espresso martini that has gained popularity for the slow melding effect that results from the dense banana foam on top bleeding into the coffee vodka and liqueur layer below. This is a skilful and creative play on the usual textures, with the creamy, salty float blending excellently with robust coffee, and while the topping of cookie crumbles is certainly unique, the awkward experience of sandy crumbs turning soggy perhaps lacks foresight.
The bar also boasts a consistent rotation of DJs raising the roof with disco house music, lending the terrain its essential club energy. Not a lot of room to bust out dramatic moves though; the real estate is more suited to those content to bounce to the vibe and let the euphoric tunes lift the spirit. If your stamina starts running low, Up & Away has also partnered with Alta Café (you can find the collaborative dining space downstairs) and carries their burgers, fries and milkshakes. The Alta Burger with skin-on fries (RM36), starring two meaty, crisp smashed patties, cheddar, onions and special sauce on a soft potato roll, have all the fat, sodium and calories to satiate midnight cravings and keep you dancing.
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We were graciously provided with seats on a Saturday night sans bookings, but once 10pm struck, the shoulder-to-shoulder volumes of patrons meant plenty of vulture-like glares, so reservations are strongly recommended. That said, sparse few locales in this part of town are for slow sessions of sit-down sipping. The relentless excitement and buzzing ambience are part of its intoxicating allure, as a place where you can shed your stresses and drift through your night — just watch out for the steep stairs after you have had your fill.
141, Jalan Petaling, Chinatown, KL. Wed-Sun, 7pm until late. Closed Mon and Tues.
This article first appeared on Feb 3, 2025 in The Edge Malaysia.
