A warm glow from the bar is the primary source of light in the space (All photos: Genie Leong/ The Edge)
In many major cities, the sight of lanes bookended by ornate arches in the traditional Chinese style is a welcome scene for any homesick Asian traveller. The 2003 installation of Kuala Lumpur’s own pair along Jalan Petaling spelt modern revival for the area many still call Chinatown to this day. More than two decades later, this district characterised by pre-war shophouses and busy street life has claimed a shining reputation as an undying hotspot for fun and culture, frequented by locals and tourists alike.
Change is bittersweet and ever ongoing, though. Recent months have seen the closure of key nightlife mainstays along the stretch, marking a sort of end of an era. Up until August 2024, one particular second-floor walk-up bore the name Sesssions. Part bar, part live music joint, it offered a more intimate, beats-focused experience than some of the clubbier spots around town. The space was later taken over by bartender Jordan Lim and, in late 2025, officially reopened as a cocktail-forward establishment named Up & Away. That vision did not last long, however, as Lim felt the historic lot and public’s growing preference for laidback yet exceptional experiences demanded a different concept.
Now, the same entryway bears a marbled green glass adorned with a logo made up of four diamonds and the letters P, L and C. The initials, standing for Poo Loong & Co, beckon you up a steep wooden staircase. Red tape and bright lighting help you tread cautiously, but ladies in high heels (and those who accidentally take their imbibing a little too far) should still be careful when negotiating the steps.
Your reward for making the scary climb safely? A moody expanse with a jazzy soundtrack to match. Preserved walls and exposed roofing hark back to the unit’s earlier days, with only contemporary furnishings to signify time passed. The well-illuminated bar is the space’s primary source of lighting, emitting a warm glow supplemented only by small touch-controlled table lamps. In the no-shoes sofa nook, curling flames dance in an electric fireplace. The window shutters are kept open, allowing the sounds of outdoor bustle and occasional traffic to drift in, merging the music of the city with that indoors.
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There is an epidemic of bars pursuing popularity through zany concoctions made with extensive lists of extravagant — and, sometimes, wholly unnecessary — ingredients. Diverting from the madness, Poo Loong has chosen to stick to the classics with slight twists. With just 16 offerings, the menu is tight and the beverages are the exclusive focus. A noticeable lack of snacks here means the munchies will not be satiated, so any hankering should be taken downstairs for afters (Wawafish’s authentic Guizhou dishes are a top choice, and just a skip and hop away).
But attention on the drinks. Something easy to sip on are always good starters. For that, there is no going wrong with the Daiquiri (RM50) and Cosmopolitan (RM50). The former is refreshingly uncomplicated — just rum, lime and sweetener. In place of plain sugar, Poo Loong subs in gula apong (Sarawakian palm sugar) for added depth of flavour. The tart greenness of the fresh citrus is the star, prickling up the senses from the moment you lift the glass before the nose. The wedge garnishing the rim should not just be taken as decoration either — a gentle bite to coat the palate in a burst of acidity, followed by a slow, luscious sip, works wonders.
Carrie Bradshaw’s drink of choice, meanwhile, boasts a fruitier profile achieved through house-made berry juice. Instead of a bright pink or electric red hue, this iteration embodies a mature rouged tone, slightly cloudy in case you had doubted that real fruit was used. The taste is reminiscent of macerated berries — sweet, but balanced by a healthy dose of sour citrus. The average bar might use any run of-the-mill triple sec in their renditions. Cointreau — a premium version of the orange liqueur — is preferred here as its elevated aromas and subdued sweetness keep everything in equilibrium.
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Also in the realm of iconic citrus-based drinks is the Margarita (RM55), the enduring tropical vacation favourite. From the opening drop, Poo Loong’s version evokes images of lemon salt candy, bizarre to experience at first considering there is no salt rim. The presence of saline makes this possible while amplifying the citrusy tones. One very minor complaint (if you can even classify it as so) is instead of a big lone ice block, the rocks glass is filled with a handful of large cubes, which can feel a little clumsy as they tumble and splash about in the cup for the first few minutes before they begin to melt and settle more evenly in the alcohol. If you approach your initial mouthfuls gingerly, though, this is a total non-issue.
Lim continues to prove mastery of balance in a take on the Espresso Martini (RM50). The sight of the bar hands preparing each shot to order — not a jug of cold brew in sight — kicks things off with a promising start before the drink even arrives at the table. What is placed in front of you is deceivingly plain, embellished with nothing more than a single coffee bean floating on the foam cap. Sweetness here is more of a suggestion than an obvious element, presented by the butteriness of the java that reminds you of melted ice cream, sans the gloopiness. To ensure full control over flavours, a house coffee liqueur replaces traditional Kahlúa and saline makes a reappearance to round out the creation.
Should you have caught a severe case of the savoury cocktail bug, even the most balanced of sweet drinks may not be your cup of tea. If salt and spice tickle your fancy more than sugar, the Bloody Mary (RM55) cannot come more highly recommended. Topped with an adorably round cherry tomato and crisp bell pepper squares, this lightly spiced option has a smoky mezcal base to uplift a rich homemade tomato mix. Produce was cooked down to draw out its zing and enrich the drink, while the careful addition of lemon ensures punch without excessive harshness.
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If a relaxed environment curated by personalities who certainly know what they are doing is what you are after, Poo Loong measures up without doubt. As it is still early days, whether or not Lim and his team will keep this current set-up remains to be seen. There is a reason classic cocktails have retained their widespread popularity through generations, though, and the versions here are as flawless as they come.
Poo Loong & Co, 141 Jalan Petaling, City Centre, KL. Daily, 6pm to 2am (Sun to Thurs); 6pm to 3am (Fri and Sat).
This article first appeared on Aug 10, 2026 in The Edge Malaysia.
