Cheng May Koh-Tommasino pairing loungewear with jeans
Perhaps it is ingrained in their nature, or the gods themselves ordained it by physically shaping the country to resemble a high-heeled boot, but Italy has always been a land of style. And while Milan is the de facto national capital of fashion and luxury, the rest of the country must not be discounted, not least the region where the “heel” specifically is located. Known as Puglia (or Apulia to the English speakers), it is mainly prime agricultural territory, thick with ancient olive groves and a land planted with all manner of good things, from artichokes to tomatoes that literally taste of the sun, fava beans and durum wheat. In fact, Puglia’s nickname of “Italy’s breadbasket” is justifiably well-earned and the origin of the famous ear-shaped pasta called orecchiette is proudly Pugliese.
Somewhere in Manduria, facing the Ionian Sea, is the Masseria Potenti. The masseria (a traditional fortified rural farmhouse) is located on a 150ha estate that Malaysian-born Cheng May Koh-Tommasino, the founder of luxury loungewear label Cara Mia May, now calls home. Married to Walter Tommasino, whose family owns the estate, May, as she prefers to be called, first visited in 2018.
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“It was December when I arrived,” she says. “There was a towering 3m tall Christmas tree and we had just finished a festive seafood dinner shared with a big Italian family. Turning in for the night, I found a pair of vintage pyjamas my mother-in-law had left for me, tucked under my pillow. Along with candles, a wreath and a cosy fireplace making the room softly glow, these were ways of making me feel at home, a tradition she continues to this day.”
On her brand’s poetic name, May explains, “It means ‘my beloved May’ in Italian. Tucked within the pyjamas was a folded handwritten note that read, ‘Cara mia May, I hope you feel at home’. Those words touched my heart — they were few and simple but are forever imprinted in my memory with feelings of comfort and warmth from my love’s family. This reflects my brand ethos: to cherish warm feelings of love and joy derived from vintage pieces of rare beauty.”
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A lifelong lover of beautiful clothes, as most women are, May says her relationship with fashion deepened after discovering the circular economy. “Fast fashion is so destructive,” she says. “To me, true style is timeless, not seasonal. Vintage pieces, especially handmade, hand-embellished ones, carry stories and soul. That is why a pair of Cara Mia May pyjamas would not look out of place whether worn in the 1970s or tomorrow. That is the beauty of clothing that transcends trends and why Cara Mia May is completely focused on upcycling deadstock and vintage fabrics, while our main collections are made-to-order in small batches. It is slow fashion: conscious, deliberate, honouring the past while creating for the future.”
A globetrotter at heart, May has lived in Los Angeles, Tokyo, Singapore and London prior to Puglia. “Each city helped shape me,” she muses. “In LA, I interned in the entertainment industry after my studies in California. Summers were spent with my aunt and uncle in Tokyo, where I fell in love with Japanese food and culture. Singapore was where I built my career in e-commerce over nearly a decade. London was where our son was born and my brand took shape. Each city added to my palette of influences — cultures, colours and textures — which I now draw from to be included in my work.”
Apart from fashion, May is also a passionate dancer and certified yogi, always captivated by a gentler, more mindful way of life. “I worked in tech, advising clients for years. But alongside that, I felt a pull towards something more personal and fulfilling. I knew I wanted a business where creativity wasn’t an afterthought but at the heart of everything.”
Covid-19 proved to be the unexpected catalyst. Locked down in Puglia, away from their tiny London apartment, May and her husband got used to being away from the rat race, revelling in the beauty and fresh air of the Italian countryside. “Walter’s family had bought the masseria in 2003. It was in ruins and they slowly rebuilt it with love into a working farm and agriturismo property. The days were definitely slower and I often lounged in vintage pyjamas, which then sparked an idea: Why not recreate the elegance of this relaxed clothing using traditional craftsmanship?”
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As corporate life grew increasingly stressful, May discovered what started as a passion project showed her the path to live and breathe what she truly loved. “I began collaborating with a fourth-generation family tailor, developing prototypes inspired by my travels and adorned with embroidery. That was how the seeds of Cara Mia May were first planted.”
Under May’s care and guidance, her vintage pigiamino label has since grown to include pearl jewellery and home furnishings, such as serving plates and ceramic dining sets, vintage silk table cloths, table runners and hand-poured candles. “The brand has become a little lifestyle universe — an homage to artisan workshops, traditional techniques and the essence of Puglia. Our ceramics are also central to the lifestyle — used in long lunches and dinner parties, sparking conversations, laughter and togetherness, besides becoming keepsakes that can be passed down for generations.”
Given Puglia’s climate, linen is understandably the preferred fabric. “In Malaysia, I lean into batik and you’ll find me in a batik cheongsam every Chinese New Year,” says May. “But in Puglia, it’s all about linen. I wear it in all styles — button-down shirts or dresses with bell or balloon sleeves. I also wear my vintage embroidered pyjamas as day dresses; they look great against sun-kissed skin. Once I even decided to weave my heritage into my creations by designing a limited-edition batik crop top with pyjama pants which are perfect for summers in Puglia.”
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And in line with Pugliese style, which May proclaims as effortless, understated and full of character, fashion here is rooted in tradition, not trends. “The way of dressing here is about decency, age- and lifestyle-appropriateness — a gentle and elegant expression of self, over overt sexiness,” she points out. “My mother-in-law is my style icon and she embodies this approach to dressing perfectly. She would drape a vintage kimono over simple wide-legged pants and a top, and always finish with a pair of statement earrings. I must add how jewellery is never a secondary consideration here. Grandmothers pass down vintage pearls and gold bracelets, heirlooms that continue to be worn with pride. I have been lucky to have received a few of these gifts myself.”
Those charmed by the world of Cara Mia May can, in fact, choose to fully immerse themselves in a slice of May’s life. She hosts regular weeklong yoga retreats at Masseria Potenti as well as two new properties the family have added to their portfolio. One is a 1960s beach house where barefoot living is de rigueur, the other a 16th-century monastery in Nardò, steeped in silence and history.
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“We think, together, they embody Puglia’s different facets: rustic, coastal and spiritual,” says May. “Beyond mere clothing, Cara Mia May has become experiential. Through my retreats, guests may immerse themselves in slow living, take part in craft workshops like ceramic-making or basket-weaving, or even join in on pyjama parties that round up the event. My vision is to share the soul of Puglia with the world — through tangible products as well as lived experiences.”
Guests who come to stay at Masseria Potenti would invariably find their days easily adjusting to the slow rhythm of the Italian countryside. Mornings would start with a table heaving with freshly baked ciambella breakfast cakes and cooked eggs — they are laid fresh by happy, free-range hens. As wheat is grown in the region, expect an abundance of delicious baked goods, namely a basket of local friselle — ring-shaped, twice-baked bread — best enjoyed by, first, rehydrating it with water before further anointing with olive oil, salt, tomatoes and fresh basil. Afternoons call for a swim in the sea (a perfect balm for spirit and soul) while evenings see the tambourines being brought out so lessons of vigorous pizzica and tarantella dances can commence.
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For those who simply must venture beyond the masseria walls, May suggests visiting a few local stalls for a spot of retail therapy. “Markets are my happy place. In London, you would find me at Portobello and Golborne Road on Fridays while in Manduria, the local vintage market on Tuesdays is my go-to. Some of my most treasured finds have come from these hunts, including my wedding dress from the 1930s and a sequined 1920s gown.”
Her recommendations are Nicola Fasano Ceramics in Grottaglie; Officine Silentio in the historic heart of Ostuni; Vico dei Bolognesi, a concept store focusing on unique desirables from all over the world in Lecce; TulsiShop, which has at least four outlets in Puglia and whose owner Deborah Nolan personally sources items directly from villages in Mexico, markets in India, Thailand, Africa and Vietnam, or directly from local artisans, craftsmen and weavers; and Orsina à at the Coccaro Beach Club in the fishing village of Savelletri. “And then, of course, you have Masseria Potenti’s own vintage shop where I pick many dresses for weddings and parties,” smiles May. “The farmhouse is definitely home for us now and we have recently completed a villa here as well. Every summer, friends come to visit and it really feels like the heart of our lives here in Puglia.”
This article first appeared on Sept 15, 2025 in The Edge Malaysia.
