The River Onyar — and almost 2,000 years in between — divides Old and New Girona (Photo: Diana Khoo/The Edge)
Such is the paradox of life that when we can finally afford to eat at all the restaurants we once dreamed of, the body’s metabolic rate decides to revolt, slowing down to a near-grinding halt. For those caught in a culinary calorific conundrum, however, the Catalan city of Girona — under an hour by fast train from Barcelona — offers the perfect balance.
Embraced as Europe’s road cycling capital and a veritable mecca for anyone whose eyes light up at the thought of pedalling up demanding mountainous roads or zooming along flat yet-scenic routes, Girona first caught the attention of the international gourmet jet-set in 2013 when El Celler de Can Roca bagged the top spot on the World’s 50 Best Restaurants list. It repeated the feat in 2015. Prior to that, the stars — Michelin, that is — were already showing Magi-like signs, foretelling of its legendary status. Opened in 1986 by the Roca brothers (Joan, Josep and Jordi), El Celler was awarded its first Michelin star in 1995, second in 2002 and, the ultimate third in 2009, which it has consistently maintained ever since.
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It is no wonder then that young and ambitious chefs and restaurateurs continue to flock to the city, drawn by the gravitational pull of the Roca brothers’ Michelin-starred super moon. In articles and chat rooms, travellers tired out by Barcelona’s hustle and bustle and madding crowds have already declared this tranquil city — built on 2,000-year-old Roman foundations — their preferred place in all of Catalunya.
And, certainly, just spending a few hours here will show you why. It is studded with magnificent sights (Game of Thrones fans should start with the medieval quarter, as the Cathedral of Saint Mary would prove instantly recognisable as the Great Sept of Baelor in King’s Landing, in a scene where Jamie Lannister confronts the High Sparrow in Season 6). Fandom aside, architectural enthusiasts would be left open-mouthed at the sheer magnificence of a sacred space that took seven centuries to complete, which also houses the widest Gothic nave on the planet.
The River Onyar divides Old Girona from New Girona (think 2,000 years versus 200 years). The best way to criss-cross seamlessly is on foot, using one of its several bridges, particularly the Pont de las Palanques Vermelles — most commonly referred to as the Red Bridge because of its standout colour — or the Eiffel Bridge, as it was built by Gustave Eiffel’s company (yes, of the Parisian tower fame) in 1827.
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While Girona is best explored on foot, cycling is another standout way to experience the city. After Lance Armstrong moved to an apartment in Barri Vell (the historic Old Quarter whose cobblestone streets were once part of the Via Augusta, a 1,500km Roman road linking the empire to the Iberian Peninsula) for a few years, cycling enthusiasts from Mumbai to Montreal have come to experience the terrain for themselves — bordered by the challenging Pyrenees to the north; and the sand as well as sapphire waters of the Costa Brava and the Mediterranean Sea to the east.
If you have been particularly active before breakfast, then a world-class coffee and xuixo (pronounced “shoo-sho”; it is a Gironese speciality boasting a cream-filled pastry that is a cross between a doughnut and croissant) at the de facto cyclists’ hangout of Espresso Mafia, founded by retired Canadian racer Christian Meier and his wife, Amber, is well-deserved. Another alternative is Velodrom Odeon, a beautiful cycling space set in a restored 19th-century theatre in the centre of Barri Vell, where you can sip on a cortado while stocking up on world-class brands like Rapha, Pas Normal Studios, MAAP and Velocio.
Eating and drinking well is par for the course in Girona. But why not stay at a hotel owned by the Roca brothers themselves while you are at it? The extremely well-placed Casa Cacao offers 15 rooms and a splendid rooftop terrace in historic confines right smack in the heart of Plaça Catalunya. True to its name, there is a shop and café designed to delight chocoholics on the ground level. There is no better way to enjoy your vacation than by starting (or ending) each day with a cup of its justifiably famous hot chocolate. A few doors away is SiNoFos, another top restaurant perfect for winding down over plates of Joselito acorn-fed Iberian ham and Cantabrian anchovies washed down by a selection of natural wines.
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Pere Massana, another famous name and chef-patron of the one-starred Massana, owns a delicatessen nearby called Món Gourmet, where you absolutely must step in to stock up on all manner of local comestibles, including fuets and sausages from Vic, botifarras from Giron, and spicy sobrasada from Mallorca. Those with a sweet tooth should also pick up packs of delicious chocolate-coated almonds called catànies, caramels and carquinyolis, Catalunya’s answer to the biscotti, best dunked in coffee or ratafia, a sweet alcoholic beverage with a taste redolent of bitter almonds. For retail therapy of the traditional kind, walk over to Carrer Santa Clara, which offers several small, independent stores; you can pick up espadrilles at Toni Pons, perfumes at Nasopia and clothes and accessories at eseOese.
If you have not had your fill of sweets or basking in the reflected glory of the Roca brothers, then it is just up the street to the Rocambolesc Confiteria you must go, the three siblings’ gourmet ice creamery with an adjoining sweet shop. Here, even adults fall under the sugary spell of the artisanal ice creams and confections. There are the classics such as chocolate and vanilla, of course, but do make it a point to try the seasonal selections that may include, but are not limited to, baked apple, matcha blended with the fragrant marialuisa herb, Sant Jordi rose or strawberry with guanayaba. It is also a must to order the Panet — a creation of the Willy Wonka-esque genius Jordi Roca, where gelato and your selection of toppings (opt for the chocolate pop rocks for extra flavour and sensation) are placed inside a brioche bun and then toasted inside a custom-designed vertical hot press machine for a yin-yang, hot-cold treat that is now a Rocambolesc signature.
This article first appeared on May 11, 2026 in The Edge Malaysia.
