Quatrefoil motifs can be found all over Steep Social, from windows to drink garnishes (All photos: Quincy Tan/The Edge)
The term terroir has long been inextricable from the realm of wine. Taken from the French word for land, terre, it refers to the environmental factors of climate, soil, topography and even farming practices that influence a varietal’s phenotype. After the vinification process, these myriad elements remain detectable in a wine’s unique notes, down to its minerality, acidity, alcohol content and more.
Lately, the concept’s application beyond the humble grape has become more popular. Some whiskymakers like Bruichladdich pride themselves on the influence of their Hebridean land, and though a handful of dram drinkers take the idea of whisky terroir with a grain of salt, there is no denying how nature’s magic plays its part in the individual qualities of all vegetation. The idea that a crop can be completely modified through centuries of human innovation, yet still retain the tastes imbued by the earth, is nothing short of miraculous.
When it comes to deep connections and appreciating origin, Penang’s Steep Social knows a thing or two. Established by veteran bartenders Joe Ngui (formerly of Gibson in Singapore and Bar Trigona in Kuala Lumpur) and Chew Qing Ting (formerly of Madame Fan Bar in Singapore) just last October, the low-key lot on Lebuh Pantai emphasises care and the synergy of “two settings in one glass”. Its signature creations specialise in blending wine with tea, embodying a “double terroir” theme while capturing distinctly Asian flavour profiles.
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The interiors are a promising prelude to the concoctions to come: this is an elegant den of traditional Chinese aesthetics, from the back of the bar inspired by wok-ear roofs — a staple of Lingnan architecture — to the glowing golden murals, geshan lattice partitions and muted palette. Demure floral stalks and a moon-like lantern put one in mind of a serene garden in the night. Regulars chat in comfort up at the counter, while the tables farther in provide privacy and space for larger parties. Venture even further and discover a fun secret: Young & Slashie, a hidden vintage store.
After we are seated, Ngui explains the menu is divided into three sections. The first, Roots and Routes, pays homage to the Southern Chinese diaspora and the unique experiences it has developed in Malaysia.
From this category arrives our recommended first pick, Barley Field (RM50), a beverage honouring the coolies who worked the land and were sustained by grain. This herbaceous shōchū potion suggests warm, medicinal aromas that belie its tangy and refreshing fizz. On the side, a spoonful of slow-cooked pearl barley — mild and reminiscent of cardamom and star anise — recalls the kopitiam order’s nostalgic chew.
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Those of Teochew lineage might gravitate towards Not Olive (RM50), as we did, a quirky play on the island’s beloved porridge culture. Saké plays the role of rice here, with its distinct fermented sweetness leading into the fruity Calvados, umami-forward preserved olive vegetables and five spice. The overall effect is a little funky, savoury on the nose but piquant on the palate. Steep Social has a penchant for clarification, but we are curious to see what a dirty version would look like — starchy and muddled with a real side of youtiao, maybe?
Lands in Dialogue, the menu’s next segment, is where the locale’s iconic wine-meets-tea concoctions reside. The most popular Crimson Jade (RM55), an enticing mix of long jing green tea and sparkling Lambrusco, is sadly unavailable, so the co-owners direct us instead to Vel Vet (RM55) for a richer alternative. Asam boi, Sauternes, zheng shan xiao zhong (also known as lapsang souchong) with cream are unusual bedfellows, but our suspicions are alleviated at the first sip. After its decadent milkiness and gentle zip comes a long, generous finish where the black tea’s sophisticated fragrance and almost brown sugar-like character calmly unfurl. A shaving of frozen plum over the top gives just a hint of rawness — think green apple or pear — to freshen it all up.
Reinvented oldies are an increasingly familiar modus operandi, and this time, they make up the final part of Steep Social’s offerings — but with a fascinating twist. Rather than swapping out a few ingredients or changing up techniques, the Double Classics are mashups of traditional orders. Case in point: the Star Sour (RM55) injects tropical fun into a New York Sour — whisky with a red wine float — using the Porn Star Martini’s unmistakable character of passionfruit and vanilla. Jungle Ramos (RM55), on the other hand, gives our rum, pineapple and campari-based national treasure a foamy, straw-suspending head.
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You may have already heard news of the ongoing World Class Cocktail Festival returning to Malaysian shores after nearly a decade, as well as the related Diageo World Class bartending competition, in which Chew is a finalist at press time. When we visit we are a little late to the party though, as her semi-final creations are just starting to fade off the establishment’s menu. Still, she kindly obliges our request of the Jam John (RM55), a scarlet coupe of Johnnie Walker Black Label, homemade strawberry shrub and fig jam. For only having three main components, the liquid is deceptively punchy — juicy and ripe with a malty undertone, great for nursing yet not too weighty.
(PS: Drop by earlier in the evening and enjoy the watering hole’s happy hour between 6pm and 8pm, where a charming selection of four brew-based highballs is served for RM35 each.)
If there is one thing Steep Social teaches us at the end of this trip, it is that patience begets great things. The works here are refined examples of what experience and skill can bring out, from the carefully calibrated components to the creative inspirations that borrow from both Chinese heritage and mixological tradition. For your next visit up north, pack a pal or two and spend some quality time over quality tipples. Good drinks come to those who wait.
279, Lebuh Pantai, George Town, Penang. Open Sun-Thurs, 6pm-midnight; Fri-Sat, 6pm-1am. Closed on Wed.
This article first appeared on May 18, 2026 in The Edge Malaysia.
