
The new Bvlgari BVS100 Lady Solotempo Automatic Movement, Tiffany & Co Bird on a Rock Watch and Gérald Genta Gentissima Oursin Fire Opal (Photo: Bvlgari; Tiffany & Co; Gérald Genta)
As LVMH continues its second leg of Watch Week in Paris (Jan 30-31) after the exhibition in New York (Jan 21-22), we look back at the best releases from participating maisons Bvlgari, Hublot, TAG Heuer, Zenith, Daniel Roth and Gérald Genta, as well as first-time exhibitors Louis Vuitton, Tiffany & Co and L’Epée 1839.
Louis Vuitton: Tambour Taiko Spin Time collection
Six new limited-edition white gold models make the new Tambour Taiko Spin Time, which reimagines the house’s iconic patented three-dimensional jumping cubes display inspired by airport flight boards. Every 60 minutes, two cubes spin to reveal the next hour. Two of the six are time-only 39.5mm Tambour Taiko Spin Times, the only ones with a closed caseback and 100m of water resistance. They are available in both pavé and non-pavé versions, with the former adorned with 94 baguette-cut diamonds. Revealing the in-house LFT ST13.01 calibre through a display caseback, the other four Tambour Taiko Spin Time Air models feature a 42.5mm case that frames 12 levitating hour-display cubes. These include a regular and snow-set version (more than 1,000 diamonds this time) as well as one with a central flying tourbillon and another with a world-time complication that has city names etched on the blocks.
Zenith: Defy Skyline Chronograph Skeleton
A long anticipated release, Zenith’s openworked version of the Defy Skyline Chronograph showcases a resolutely modern evolution of the legendary El Primero movement. The Calibre El Primero 3600 has the unique ability of displaying 1/10th of a second at a frequency of 5Hz and this skeletonised version provides a clear view of its mechanics. The dial is hollowed out with geometric cutouts of the brand’s “double Z” logo from the 1960s and the three subdials are also openworked. Super-LumiNova on the faceted applied baton hour markers and hands ensure legibility even in the darkest environments. Crafted from steel, the 42mm octagonal case is topped with a 12-facet bezel and flanked by dynamic pushers. The chronograph comes in black or blue with an additional rubber strap that can be easily swapped in.
Gérald Genta: Gentissima Oursin Fire Opal
Thirty years ago on the shores of Corsica, France, a simple sea urchin captivated the imagination of Gérald Genta. Its geometric symmetry and spiny globular body inspired the sketches that would eventually shape the Oursin line. Taking a leaf out of nature’s book again, the new Gentissima Oursin Fire Opal reimagines the audacious design by way of a fiery gemstone. Forged in the depths of Mexico’s volcanic landscapes, these opals exhibit the vibrant colours of a burning flame. A total of 137 stones are set around the watch’s yellow gold case framing a cornelian dial. It is powered by the GG-005 Zenith Elite calibre, notable for its 50-hour power reserve.
TAG Heuer: Formula 1 Chronograph
Tag Heuer returns as the official timekeeper of Formula One, so it is only natural that speed enthusiasts are paying attention to how it would revitalise its racing spirit. At LVMH Watch Week, the manufacture introduced five new players, including a collaboration piece with Oracle Red Bull Racing, to its motor racing-inspired Formula 1 series. Mirroring the high-octane energy of the racetrack, this specific edition sports the team’s iconic livery colours against a blue opaline checkered dial. Crafted from grade 2 titanium with a forged carbon tachymeter bezel, the 44mm case guarantees both durability and comfort on and off the track. A custom Oracle Red Bull Racing caseback engraving completes the sporty chronograph.
Bvlgari: BVS100 Lady Solotempo Automatic Movement
This year marks a transformative chapter for Bvlgari’s celebrated Serpenti collection as it finally welcomes a mechanical movement. The Lady Solotempo BVS100 is designed to enhance the Serpenti Seduttori and Tubogas lines, allowing its timepieces to transcend traditional boundaries of jewellery and horology. Designed and produced in-house, the automatic time-only calibre is engineered to harmonise with the unique contours of the Serpenti case. Measuring just 19mm in diameter and 3.90mm in thickness, it delivers a power reserve of 50 hours and is distinguished by an oscillating weight adorned with serpent scales. Several new references have been released with the new movement, including a Serpenti Tubogas with a diamond-set bezel and pink rubellite crown. The BVS100 will also power future horological projects within the LVMH group.
Hublot: Big Bang Meca-10
Inspired by Meccano-type construction systems, Hublot’s Meca-10 was first introduced in 2016, boasting a movement construction that emphasised visual intrigue and structural integrity. Nearly a decade later, the Swiss watchmaker presents the emblematic Big Bang in a more compact and wearable 42mm case with an optimised calibre to boot. The new version largely retains the model’s familiar silhouette, save for a couple of updates, including additional finishes on the bridges and a galvanically coloured movement to match the new King Gold, Titanium and Frosted Carbon iterations. A 10-day power reserve, indicated by an easy-to-read differential display at 3 o’clock, remains the timepiece’s most impressive feature.
Daniel Roth: Extra Plat Souscription
If there is anything to be said about La Fabrique du Temps Louis Vuitton’s stewardship of Daniel Roth’s revival, it is that they are retaining everything that makes a Roth a Roth. The Extra Plat Souscription traces its roots to the 1990s, echoing the original Extra Plat with its double ellipse form and svelte proportions, though contemporary technical standards are upheld with the DR002 calibre, which enhances it with 65-hour power reserve. Central to the watch’s charm is its intricate yellow gold clou de Paris guilloché dial, achieved through hand-operated machinery dating back to the mid-19th century. Subtle updates, such as the gently rounded lugs and perfectly centred godrooning, enhance both ergonomics and aesthetics, ensuring this piece retains its timeless appeal.
Tiffany & Co: Eternity by Tiffany Wisteria Watch
If diamonds are a girl’s best friend, then Tiffany & Co’s new lineup of bejewelled timepieces will certainly make a most loyal circle. Jean Schlumberger’s legacy shines through with two new Bird on a Rock timepieces, featuring diamonds, aquamarines and tsavorites, in addition to a Twenty Four Stone watch that highlights her signature cross-stitch motif. On the other hand, the Carat 128 Aquamarine pulls out all the stops with 897 diamonds totalling nearly 29 carats on the case alone. Its standout element is a 35.23-carat aquamarine crystal, faceted to mirror the Tiffany Diamond’s geometry and brilliance atop a dial with another 382 diamonds. The Eternity by Tiffany Wisteria Enamel Watch, however, is by far the most striking. Plique-à-jour enamel is used to replicate the cascading blooms of the Tiffany Studios’ iconic Wisteria lamp. Twelve uniquely cut diamonds — emerald, marquise, princess, you name it — mark the hours.
L’Epée 1839: Mechanical Watch Box
Rounding up the releases, first-time exhibitor to LVMH Watch Week L’Epée 1839 adds a touch of whimsy to how one treasures and stores their favourite timepiece. With the press of a button, the Watch Box springs to life with a mechanical lift system that gracefully opens the case while simultaneously raising the wrist watch as if hoisting a trophy. The transparent acrylic casing makes its gears and levers visible, echoing horology’s complex inner workings. It is specifically engineered to operate without the need for manual winding — closing the cover automatically rewinds the inner mechanism.