To Delhotal, being suspended in time means putting himself in a space he feels good in (All photos: Hermès)
While the conventional understanding of ultimate luxury often circles around impeccably crafted goods, the cachet of exclusivity and an uncompromised level of comfort, Hermès — a name synonymous with discerning taste and itself a formidable player in this realm — proffers an arguably more nuanced and philosophical indulgence. It is, the brand suggests, the increasingly rare and precious experience of fully inhabiting the present unencumbered by the constraints of time.
Flashback to 2011, when the maison surprised the industry with a whimsical new movement that allowed the Arceau Le Temps Suspendu to temporarily conceal the time at the push of a button, bestowing upon wearer the power to seize the moment for as long as they like. The poetic complication won top prize for the year’s GPHG Men’s Watch category, but the original purpose of its development, which started in 2008, was never solely to attain accolades.
“To exist in the watchmaking landscape, we needed to find something quite original to be different,” Philippe Delhotal, creative director of the French luxury maison’s horological faculty, recalls. “For example, while some watchmakers focus on big complications, others create beautiful jewellery with animations — that’s their image. So, we wanted to create our own story and signature. We wanted watchmaking legitimacy.”
The team brainstormed and agreed on the idea to work around the theme of time. “It is an important element in Hermès because it represents the work of the artisans, craftspeople and designers, and so on. There are a whole lot of parameters where time becomes a vital accomplice in the making of an object,” he explains.
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Humanity has always sought out ways to measure and sequence the hour, going as far as employing the moon, sun and stars as guide. But we never try to stop it, Delhotal notes. However, that was what Le Temps Suspendu did. Even if merely illusory, it erased the tracks of time’s ceaseless progression.
Here is how it works: When the pusher is activated, the hour and minute hands jump to flank the numeral 12 — itself an impossible position — and the date hand disappears entirely under the edge of the dial. Pressing the button again snaps them back to reality. The hands return to their correct positions, showing the current time and date, as if they were never frozen. While the function may be more whimsical than practical, toying with conventions in such a playful manner certainly aligns with Hermès’ larks.
This year, the Arceau Le Temps Suspendu returns with a fresh aesthetic. Housed in a 42mm case, the latest model features a tinted openworked dial and transparent caseback that showcase the manufacture Hermès H1837 movement. The facelifted models offer more texture and dimension. A raised minute scale is juxtaposed against the recessed 12 o’clock and date scale, while the grain finishing hints at where the magic happens.
There are three variants: brun désert (“desert brown”) and rouge sellier (“saddler red”) in white gold, and sunburst blue in rose gold. Drawing from the brand’s equestrian heritage, the asymmetrical Arceau case mirrors a stirrup from a saddle, with the upper lugs forming a loop.
The complication is also installed in the Hèrmes Cut in a daintier 39mm configuration. Here, the mystique of the Arceau’s tinted sapphire is replaced with the Cut’s contemporary typeface. The latter adds another quirky feature: a small seconds subdial at 4 o’clock that runs counterclockwise on a 24-second rotation, whether or not the time display is halted. There are a few rose-gold numbers available, including one with a silver-toned opaline dial, another ringed with diamonds and one with a sunburst red-tinted face.
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The concept of Le Temps Suspendu becomes more pertinent in a time when political, economic and social precariousness is at its height worldwide, with more people wishing to distract or remove themselves from the turmoil completely. “We’re in a period of total uncertainty. There is a lot of doubt and fear. So, we find that suspending time is almost a necessity for all of us today,” Delhotal says.
“When you have a tiring day, you just feel like sitting back and putting yourself in a bubble. But it’s not necessarily just to isolate yourself because it can also be a moment of sharing with friends or your spouse — to be happy together without outside constraints.”
While we know, of course, that time cannot be halted in reality, the prospect of escaping it — if only psychologically — remains an undeniably alluring proposition. To Delhotal, being suspended in time means putting himself in a space he feels good in. “I love smoking a cigar and [letting my mind wander]. Doing nothing is pleasant! It’s not laziness. It is letting go and allowing yourself to be in another dimension almost. In today’s society, that is indeed a luxury.”
Hèrmes is pushing the boundaries of watchmaking in its own way, often with a touch of intrigue, humour and delight. For example, it is expanding its expressions with the Maillon Libre, a chain-link motif that often appears in the brand’s apparel and accessories. The Maillon Libre transformable brooch can be converted into a pendant, thanks to its leather cordlet, or even be worn as a cufflink. A watch is also embedded into a bejewelled bracelet with the signature motif.
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The overlaps between product categories are not frowned upon, but encouraged to maintain a more uniform image and message. “Our department is very technical compared to some others, but we try to build bridges between the different métiers. For example, when we craft a métiers d’art dial, we use the designs and drawings of the silk scarves,” says Delhotal.
Case in point: The Arceau Rocabar de Rire showcases a slew of artisanal crafts, from horsehair marquetry to engraving and miniature painting, to reinterpret a silk scarf designed by Dimitri Rybaltchenko depicting a horse sticking out its tongue. This limited-edition timepiece is equipped with an on-demand impulse function that activates the cheeky gesture.
“When we chose the design, we knew [the tongue] had to go in and out! It was the design that led to the technical development, which is not always the case,” Delhotal explains. When presented with the timepiece at Watches & Wonders, the whole room cracked up at the silly mechanism. Even the most dour and stony journalists were disarmed.
“This is something that’s funny. It brings surprise and laughter. Watches are serious when it comes to the profession. We like to be a little offbeat and offer some whimsy, lightness and fantasy — that’s what people like about Hermès.”
Oh, to be caught up and suspended in amusement. Isn’t that just what the doctor ordered?
Hermès is already working on projects for 2027 and 2028 and while there are strictly no hints, one can always bank on an element of surprise. “People always ask what we have up our sleeve,” he smiles. “You’ll just have to wait and find out.”
This article first appeared on May 5, 2025 in The Edge Malaysia.
