Vacheron Constantin kicks off its 270th anniversary with the iconic 222 in steel

The long-awaited remake perfectly illustrates the timelessness of good design.

The whole point of the Historiques Collection is to preserve the essence of the original icons as much as possible (All photos: Vacheron Constantin)

In 2022, Vacheron Constantin’s iconic 222 made its grand return via the Historiques Collection in radiant yellow gold. Ostentatious with the satisfying heft that comes with any solid gold number, it was a fitting comeback for a timepiece crowned part of the “holy trinity” of integrated bracelet luxury sports watches, the other two being Audemars Piguet’s Royal Oak and Patek Philippe’s Nautilus.

The 20th century saw the birth of some of horology’s most iconic designs, but this 1970s-specific aesthetic is hotly sought after even today. The Royal Oak and Nautilus are widely known to have been conceived by Gérald Genta, the father of groundbreaking design, but the 222 is not his work, contrary to popular belief. It was in fact Jorg Hysek, whose portfolio includes the Breguet Marine, Tag Heuer Kirium and Seiko Arctura, who fashioned the eponymous timepiece for Vacheron’s — you guessed it — 222nd anniversary in 1977.

Hysek’s creation radically deviated from conventional sports watches at the time, which mainly catered for professional pilots, divers and explorers. It came at an era when a new concept was being embraced: Elegant steel sports watches with ultra-thin movements and integrated bracelets were de rigueur. Aside from the trinity, Girard-Perregaux also came out with the Laureato, and IWC, the Ingenieur.

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The original (left) vs the reissued 222 in yellow gold

The 222 was at once luxurious, sporty and casual with its monobloc case, integrated bracelet and svelte measurements, thanks to the ultra-thin automatic Calibre 1120, courtesy of Jaeger-LeCoultre. Nicknamed “Jumbo” (imagine that!), the 37mm time-and-date introduced a new stylistic signature to the maison that would influence its subsequent Overseas collection. The anniversary piece was a rarity. Only around 500 units in steel were produced and even fewer in gold and smaller sizes. Every collector — including Brad Pitt, who managed to secure a vintage model — was on the lookout.

The first reissue was a global success, though many expected it to be in good ol’ steel. This version would occupy predictions lists in the following years, reflecting the demand and desire for an understated 222. The good news is the wait is over. Vacheron is kicking off its 270th anniversary celebrations by giving fans exactly what they asked for.

As with the gold model, the codes emblematic of the 222 are scrupulously respected in the steel: 37mm diameter, fluted bezel, straight hour markers and baton-style hands. Likewise, the integrated bracelet with hexagonal links as well as the Maltese cross motif soldered onto the flat table of the case at 5 o’clock — this time in solid 18-carat yellow gold — are retained. It is not easy to tell a true vintage and the reissue apart — the whole point of the Historiques Collection is to preserve the essence of the original icons as much as possible.

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The codes emblematic of the 222 are scrupulously respected in the steel model

Having said that, changes in the 222 remake are largely subtle and functional, exemplified by the Calibre 2455/2. Slightly smaller in diameter than its predecessor, it is only 3.6mm thick, hence the watch’s slim figure. Thanks to its frequency of 4Hz (28,888 vibrations per hour) — compared with 2.75Hz on the original model — the movement offers enhanced precision and is endowed with 40-hour power reserve. It is also hallmarked with the Poinçon de Genève, awarded to timepieces with remarkable finishes and decorative details, and can be admired through the sapphire caseback. The oscillating weight is engraved with the original 222 logo and edged with a fluted motif reminiscent of the “bottle cap” bezel.

On the restrained matte blue dial, the date window has been shifted towards the centre. The Super-LumiNova coating of the hands and hour markers (ivory by day and lime green by night) are a nod to the hue of the tritium used in historical timepieces. Though the face of the watch faithfully reprises the 222’s retro simplicity, its hands, hour markers and applied Maltese cross emblem are crafted from solid white gold, adding a touch of preciousness to the timepiece.

The bracelet — or, more specifically, its joints — was also subjected to technical improvements. They have been reworked to conceal connecting pins and improve ergonomics. Meanwhile, a triple-blade system replaces the twin-blade folding clasp.

The stainless steel Historiques 222 perfectly illustrates the timelessness of good design. Vintage yet resolutely contemporary, weaving together the past and present, it is an excellent opening act of Vacheron’s 270th jubilee.

 

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The oscillating weight is engraved with the original 222 logo

For the past century, the manufacture has taken each decade milestone as an opportunity to revisit its history and values.

Christian Selmoni, style and heritage director, says: “Tracing Vacheron Constantin’s past involves looking back at a large swathe of watchmaking history. As one of the oldest maisons in continuous operation, we undoubtedly have a greater duty of remembrance than any other. This has been understood since 1755 and we consider it an important responsibility to preserve and perpetuate this story for future generations.

“These anniversaries celebrate a philosophy that combines mechanical research and innovation with a deep commitment to craft and a   stylistic approach that is both progressive and highly respectful of classical elegance.”

Chief marketing officer Alexandra Vogler adds that this year’s revelry “will also bring its share of horological surprises and expressions of watchmaking expertise — undoubtedly worthy of standing alongside the previous anniversary models”.

When founder Jean-Marc Vacheron signed his watchmaking apprenticeship contract in 1755, he established a fundamental value of the house: the transmission of knowledge and skills. Driven by the desire for constant progress and watchmaking excellence, he forged the brand’s relentless character. Decades later, his grandson, Jacques Barthélémi Vacheron, struck a partnership with François Constantin, and received a note from his associate: “Do better if possible, and that is always possible.”

Evidently, the maxim continues to be at the heart of the maison to this day.

 

This article first appeared on Jan 20, 2025 in The Edge Malaysia.

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