Nomu Co bartenders meticulously prepare customers' orders (All photos: Quincy Tan/The Edge)
Last year, we discovered one of our favourite cocktail haunts in Penang. The cosy yet chic The Suckling Pig, headed up by Adrian Foo, was on a mighty roll. Naturally, word had got around that the former principal bartender of Singapore’s illustrious Jigger and Pony had came home to set up shop farther along the strait, and the establishment swiftly earned its status as a hidden gem frequented by locals for its stellar presentation of timeless classics.
Alas, the bad news did not reach our ears until a recent trip north. To cut a long story short, disagreements fractured the operation and The Suckling Pig declared in January that it would be temporarily closed until further notice. If this is how you find out, know you are not alone in feeling heartbroken.
There is good news, though — very good news, even — as Foo has now formed a powerhouse partnership with Kim Hock Su of one Michelin-starred Au Jardin (which was also named Malaysia’s best restaurant by Asia’s 50 Best last month, in case you missed it). As it turns out, the chef was a long-time fan of the Lebuh Noordin watering hole, often recommending it to his guests for a postprandial nightcap. This collaboration supported by impressive F&B pedigree has led to the opening of Nomu Co at Hin Bus Depot, taking over the space previously occupied by Su’s izakaya, Shokudo Niban.
Still driven by tried-and-true tipples, this two-week-old venue boasts an impressive menu where creative variation never bleeds into gratuitous excess, bringing together local inspiration, innovative techniques and incredibly refined profiles in every glass. Spatially, the casual tavern interiors have received a suave makeover. The bar’s main room, counter seats and private nook are tied together by a sexy combination of timber, leather and brick, all tastefully rendered in warm lighting. Decorations are lean but cohesive, with a record player spinning jazzy vinyl taking pride of place and the occasional miniature daruma doll nodding to the lot’s former life.
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The drinks selection is divvied up into two main sections. Revisited Classics offer meticulously executed versions of essential orders like sidecars and bijous, but make a point not to stray far from the source material. It is also worth noting the number of housemade liqueur components in each item, a detail that pays great dividends, as the team is able to perfectly tailor the subtle notes to the recipe rather than relying on bottled versions.
Case in point: Foo’s recommendation of the Bamboo (RM45) strikes us with a smooth first impression — herbaceous and rich, yet very undemanding. This equal-parts concoction is sumptuously sweet, with complex dried fruit and almond notes from the Lustau Fino sherry, as well as two vermouths: zesty, elegant Cocchi Storico di Torino and Nomu’s robustly fragrant homemade saké vermouth.
If you prefer to kick off the night with acid over sugar, the Mexican Firing Squad (RM55) packs a vibrant punch. Tequila and mezcal are always highly compatible countrymen, especially when paired with the zippy tang of lime juice, homemade grenadine and the aromatic edge of Angostura bitters. Smoke tempers the sharper parts of the potion brilliantly, making it a standout for the evening.
Things get a little more inventive under Nomu Signatures, where Malaysian ingredients and Penang dishes take centre stage. Basics such as the Chu-High (RM40) and Whisky-High (RM50) are straightforward tall picks, great for allies of fizz, while the agave and guava-based Jambu Highball (RM50) veers more fresh and tropical.
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As fervent supporters of the savoury cocktail, we are instantly tempted by the Hokkien Mary (RM60), a regional riff on the Bloody Mary inspired by Hokkien mee (prawn mee, to the southerners). To our immense delight, this is exceptional — bursting with juicy, ripe tomato umami and followed by a very long finish reminiscent of intense shrimp bisque. The latter is achieved by frying leftover prawn shells from Au Jardin, after which they are sous vided with vodka and clarified to produce this clean play on a dirty drink. If you feel a bit silly nibbling on the spiralised celery stem garnish, just let the crisp vegetal notes seep into the liquid over time.
We decide to commit to the crustacean theme by getting the Drunken Prawn Soup (RM22), nostalgic for the “shark’s fin soup” once served at The Suckling Pig on weekends. Nomu’s rotating food menu comprises light snacks and hearty options from the Michelin-starred kitchen, but since dinner still has us stuffed, we do not get to take the staff’s recommendation of Iberico lu rou fan (RM25). This herbal bowl of spicy ginger and sweet osmanthus is just the ticket for a mid-session pick-me-up, but given what tastes like a few very liberal glugs of shaoxing wine, do not count on it to snap you out of your intoxication. We do wonder how inebriated patrons might fare peeling shrimps though.
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At the risk of seeming clichéd, we fall back on an old reliable to close out the night. Nomu’s Kopi Martini (RM50) takes the widely beloved espresso iteration and cranks the flavour up to 11. Matusalem Reserva rum, gula melaka and kokutō sugar imbue bold Penang black kopi with luxurious, spiced caramel notes, while coconut water draws out the coffee’s natural acidity. Rounded off with chocolate, the result is pleasantly bitter and a tad sour without being overbearingly strong, and the decadent finish does not overstay its welcome.
So, it seems the saying remains true: When one door closes, another opens. Holding Nomu in perpetual comparison to Foo’s former venture might feel like an easy tendency right now, but there is so much new and exciting ground for this young project to cover in its own right. Few bars get to kick off their lifetimes backed by such formidable talents, and while a scant couple of weeks is hardly long enough to found any grand predictions, the fact that we are already plotting our orders for a follow-up visit should say plenty.
125 Jalan Timah, George Town, Penang. Open Thurs to Mon, 6pm-1am.
This article first appeared on April 27, 2026 in The Edge Malaysia.
